Brasilia’s Emerging Fashion Scene

Given its continental dimensions, it’s no surprise Brazil hosts regional fashion weeks all over the country. Brasilia holds three single events itself—some showing twice a year. Capital Fashion Week, for instance, differentiates itself from most fashion shows by only allowing regional labels under its tents. Created in 2004 by Marcia Lima, CFW is now starting to collect its fruit as new local names pop up in the capital city’s fashion culture. What’s more, the event is becoming a reference point for ecological and social causes linked with the fashion industry.

During the three day pocket size edition, Talentos do Brasil—a project that creatively directs the regional craftsmanship of 15 groups from 12 different states—stood out from the packed schedule of events. Guided by Renato Loureiro, the group presented interesting trompe l’oeil textures embroidered in wool plus, an array of super feminine blouses and knee length dresses with soft contrasting flower arabesque embroideries. Under the direction of Sann Marcuccy, Livia Godoy and Marcia Rocha, Bem Me Quero worked with Maria Brejeira, Agma, Entre Nós, Sintonia and Noarte to create a line of sartorial, almost masculine cuts, toned down by embroideries camouflaged as stripes or dots and structured frill details.

Attention should also go to the collection of new talents, including Akihito Hira, Sann Marcuccy and Clarice Garcia. Inside journalists and fashionistas are now considering Hira, a former computer scientist, to be CFW’s best new discovery. In his menswear show, the designer presented an interesting sense of cutting, mixing dandy and oriental shapes together. By contrast, Garcia went futuristic with references to the movie Gattaca via double-breasted coats with clean asymmetrical collars and escalator style draperies. Marcuccy rounded things out using a crosshatch of references based in the Turkish church Hagia Sofia. Recycling a floral printed fabric that was on its way to the dumpster because of a print error, the designer found the perfect canvas to interfere with structural details such as asymmetrical pleats and dirty tie dye.

The most interesting thing about seeing these smaller fashion weeks is to get a sense of how Brazilian fashion culture is developing outside its main Rio and São Paulo poles. Brasilia still has a long road to go, but the engagement with social issues and the preoccupation with creating a fashion calendar is the first step in the right direction.

—Flávia Mendonça