Constricted Times

We’ve spotted an interesting trend in key spring/summer ’09 runway
collections: mummy chic. (That’s “mummy,” as in an embalmed body
bound in bandages.) While there’s ruching, draping, and wrapping involved, this trend is not to be confused with the Grecian or gladiator movement.
It reaches further back in history, but pushes fashion into new
territories with a modernist spin.

Maison Martin Margiela’s 20th anniversary show featured a model completely blanked out with a head-to-toe nude bodysuit and wrapped with strips of sparkly cerulean blue ribbons. Meanwhile, in a dark, avant-garde vein, Rick Owen’s “Priestesses of Longing” donned black, Ancient Egypt-inspired headdresses with their feet bundled up in swaths of black leather. By contrast, Nicolas Ghesquière’s wrapped and ruched models dispelled any connotations of gore and Goth.

Elsewhere, Balenciaga’s opening look featured Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova, looking refreshingly futuristic, in a pearly nude
mini-dress that constricted her arms at the sides with a tight,
pleated cape-like effect. At Balmain, Christophe Decarnin showcased a sexy and luxe version of this bandaged trend with an
asymmetrical fuchsia number laced with a web of jeweled black tulle.
Haider Ackerman, on the other hand, opted for a tough, utilitarian look with his nude, multi-bound ankle boots.

Cast aside your fears of over-bandaged corpses—the mummy has indeed returned, but this time he’s strutting the catwalk.

—Jessica Dang

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