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Jason's Dispatches
November 4, 2009

Absolut-ly Stockholm

By JC Report

Last week’s trip to Stockholm was short a jam-packed four days of meet and greet. To celebrate Absolut’s 30th year anniversary of art collaborations, the label invited artists who’ve contributed to their history, international journalists and local scenesters to Stockholm for 3 days of parties and art tours. Sylvie Fleury, Douglas Gordon and David Shrigley were all there and the whole premise of the event was to celebrate art and creativity. Skål to that!

On my last visit to Stockholm, I remember jamming out on the top floors of the old Lydmar Hotel and meeting some great people, but until this return trip, I was left with the lasting impression that Swedish culture was full of sameness. I recall seeing only tall blond people in well-fitted denim jeans stretched over taut asses. But I had forgotten how smart and dynamic the people were and what a zest they have life. I felt like I didn’t stop talking the entire trip. Particularly interesting were the Absolut executives. I met of slew of multi-hypenated employees but regardless of the department they worked in , the company appears stacked with incredibly passionate employees. Their passion extend as much to the unique distilling process of making Absolut vodka to the DNA of the brand’s commitment to creativity. It’s not an American style company that lives by the bottom line, it’s a company inspired by something greater than moving product. Read my profile on the event this coming Friday on JC Report.

I arrived in Stockholm yesterday listless and bedraggled. My SAS flight that connected in Chicago was having refueling problems forcing us to stay another couple hours on the tarmac. Those unforeseen delays is one reason I insist on traveling business or first class, imagine being scrunched up in a legroom-less seat in the back of plane? Well, I don’t have to imagine it, I’ve done it, I simply don’t like that area of the plane that I call route 66.

In Stockholm, I landed at the lovely Lydmar Hotel, a spot that my Swedish duchess client says is her favorite hotel in the city. That’s quite an endorsement. Art populates the entire hotel. Photography line the walls, sculptures are all over the hallway, and Swedish design furniture is everywhere. There’s nothing better than a well-designed luxury hotel to soothe the soul upon arriving in a city. After a quick nap, I wanted to smell the Stockholm air, so I hightailed to Sodermalm, the area I spent most of the time on my last trip a few years ago. Much has changed. New ones have replaced many of the stores, there’s an Acne and Nudie Jeans store that weren’t there before among a few other new storefronts I didn’t recognize. I need to do a proper spin around the city tomorrow to get re-acquainted and to update our clearly outdated City Guide I wrote about five years ago.

I’m at LAX in the United Airlines Red Carpet Clug lounge soon to board my flight to Sweden, so I’ll keep it short and sweet. Firstly, I hate these fancy names for nothing more than a lounge with stray apples, stale pretzels and tasteless coffee. What happened to the premium first class lounge concept where you don’t have to pay for proper food (Isn’t that included in the exorbitant price of first class ticket anyway?) Ok, this may not be the best attitude to starting off the day especially since I thought my flight departed at 3.30pm instead of 9.30am. I realized the error when I woke up early to finish an article and after re-checking the travel details, I noticed that 9.28 is actually the departure time, not the flight number. Who lists a departure time at 9.28 anyway? In any case, there was some kind of divine intervention at work so I should be grateful.

To catch up on the last few days…it’s been a roller coaster. I slipped out of New York and returned to LA, where frankly I breathe better these days. First order of business was to hit the hiking trails at Runyon Canyon. I don’t miss much when I travel but I was pining for my morning wake-up hikes. I hiked everyday since I arrived on Saturday, yesterday joining Kathy Freston on a brisk stroll on a trail that starts right behind her Beverly Hills home. Loved it! I’ve otherwise stayed in the Hollywood Hills home where I’m bedding down for the next few months to churn out some work. I’ve hinted at a JC Report redesign (it’s in full swing) and a premium Trend Report (in heavy production) among other exciting developments for the coming months. I’ll keep you posted here.

As for Sweden, I’m invited by Absolut to attend the celebration of the 30th anniversary of their art collection. Absolut has been one of our biggest supporters over the years and I’m looking forward to celebrating this milestone with them and interviewing artists such as Sylvie Fleury, David Shrigley Douglas Gordon. Look out for my dispatches and tweets from Stockholm over the next few days. Follow me on twitter at JCREPORTGLOBAL.

During New York Fashion week, Kelley Blevins who does the PR for Ilili (a contemporary Lebanese restaurant at 5th ave. and 28th street) introduced me to the spot for the first time. I sampled an assortment of incredibly delicious hummus, baba ghannouj, tuna kabob, brussels sprouts with caramelized grapes, shwarmas, et al. I was stunned at how tasty everything was and shocked that I wasn’t familiar with the Philippe Massoud-owned restaurant despite it being opened for over a year and a half.

I was itching to return to Ilili before I left for LA and arranged a small dinner with a couple university friends last night. Firstly I’m totally taken in by the stunning wood and glass interior that’s described as “Old Lebanon” style but I can’t help but think it’s an homage to Frank Lloyd Wright with all the paneled wood in warm palettes spanning 30 foot high ceiling. The crowd is a mash up of Middle Eastern types, post-work professionals and increasingly a celebrity and fashion following. Yesterday before my visit Uma Thurman and Lorraine Bracco dined at the hot spot and the last few weeks alone have seen Monica Bellucci, Vincente Cassel, Natalie Portman, John Malcovich, Tinsley Mortimer and The Queen of Jordan. Franca Sozzani even sponsored a L’Uomo Vogue event there during fashion week.

Bold-faced names aside, in NYC, it’s relatively easy to find a good Italian restaurant (Emilio Ballatto is my fave) or Japanese (love Japonica) but when it comes to more exotic fare, say of the Middle Eastern variety, a good selection is less obvious. I’ve been chronicling my dining experiences on these pages for over a year so you should know that I fancy myself a foodie. Well, let’s just say I loath bad food and if there’s one thing I splurge on its fine dining. Run; don’t walk to Ilili. And inquire about the private dining/party rooms upstairs.

It’s been non-stop shopping in New York since I got back from Paris. The attitude towards consumption here has changed and many of my clients who’ve been on hiatus are back in the shopping swing again. While they still don’t want heaps of garment and shopping bags turning up at their doorman, they’re still seeking those key seasonal pieces to inject in the wardrobe. And now that the Dow Jones industrial average shot back above the 10,000 mark, equilibrium seems to be on the horizon again. But what are clients really buying? One category of purchases that never stopped is accessories–a great pair of Alaia shoes, in spite of their $1500 and above pricetag is always in demand. Mid-priced jewelry in the $6-15k range always have takers, as well as clutches and statement-making bags from insider-y luxury purveyors. This past week, I’ve also been on the prowl for solid outerwear and cocktail dresses. I spent over $50k dollars on bespoke suits, Stella McCartney accessories, Norma Kamali vintage, Rick Owens jackets, and Erdem dresses in the last week alone. Also consider the pre-orders from the spring collections, the beginning search for holiday gifts and awards season dresses and it’s clear that the mood spells shopping again.

Launched in 2002, JC Report was one of the earliest online fashion publications. Back then, we could count the other relevant sites on one hand, Hintmag.com and Fashion.net are two that come to mind.

Now, cyberspace is riddled with fashion pundits and bloggists whose relevance is still to be determined.

This said, all eyes are on fashion blogs these days and different entities have taken to ranking the influence of the various sites. A recently published list by Signature9.com ranks the 99 most influential fashion blogs. Young blogging superstars such as Susie BubbleBryanboy and Tavi, made the cut, in addition to well-established authorities such as Cathy Horyn’s The Moment and Style.com. Last week, The Daily Telegraph published a list ranking “UK’s 20 Best Fashion Blogs”, and while we didn’t make the cut on this list comprising several bloggers chronicling their daily dress choices, it was good to see Diane Pernet’s ashadedviewonfashion.com and the delicious New York Magazine fashion blog made the final cut.

Today, Forbes.com ranks the “Must Read Style and Design Blogs,” and as the reporter Lauren Sherman asks in her profile “the phrase "style and design" unearths 31 million matches on Google Blog Search. Which ones are worth paying attention to?” Sites that made the shortlist include The Cool Hunter, A Continous LeanJC Report, among others.

It’s fantastic to be recognized as a leader in a space that we helped to pioneer. And according to Forbes.com, “Design and style experts say they look to blogs that focus on industry news, personal style or highly niche subjects unlikely to be covered in-depth by traditional media.” I’d say that we fit the bill for this kind of reporting.

I saw the latest French Vogue when I was in Paris last week. I peeped the offensive Lara Stone in blackface story but I was too harried to address it in a post earlier. There’s so much offensive content out there when it comes to race that if I were to address everything, this forum would become an annoying soapbox for airing all the racial insensitivities I see in fashion.

To my surprise, the offense of the French Vogue story started to pick up steam in the American press (of course, this wouldn’t happen in French press) and after viewing a CNN segment on the issue yesterday, it was time for me to weigh in. To put this fiasco in the simpliest terms, Steven Klein lensed a story with Lara Stone as the model dressed in black face in a few shots and is wearing ethnic looking clothing. She’s so black looking, if you weren’t familiar with the model, you’d think she was a new fierce black face.

The whole thing feels icky. Why play around with such a racially touchy issue? Or why not use a black model? Blackface historically has been used as a way for whites to parody blacks. Back in those days the lips were exaggerated and these white characters in blackface jumped around the stage looking like buffoons—a commentary on the lack of intelligence of black people. Carine Roitfeld is French, she may not be so familiar with this history; it may have gone over her head. Steven Klein however lives in America and you’d think that a flag would have been raised that this may not be ok, it’s a frigging blackface shoot for crying out loud. No such self-checking took place.

And to add sting to the wound, this issue of French Vogue was about celebrating models yet not one black model appears in the issue. Ahem! This has me re-thinking the Andre J cover a couple years back. Andre appeared with Carolyn Murphy on the cover of November 2007 French Vogue wearing a fetching turquoise coat cum dress, a Louise Brooks-esque bob and in full beard. What a creative tour de force, I thought, now my thinking is, was that buffoonery?

Jason's Dispatches
October 13, 2009

I Love To Wear Pumps!

By JC Report

In the shoe style game, is a man allowed in these ranks to make his own directional footwear statement by wearing high heels?

I love to wear pumps. I like the extra height it gives. I like how the deep arches change the way you walk, steps become more confident, powerful. I even like the crushing squeeze that it causes on the ball of the feet.

If you knew me back in the early nineties, I’d always twist things up with the occasional debut of a killer high heel that a man could wear. Back then it was a metal heeled eggplant Shelly’s of London or a rust colored patent Red of Dead Red kettle heel Chelsea boot that I burned up the dance floor in from Heaven to Limelight. There was a questionable pair of Mary Janes I had platformed on Second Ave, but that one we can forget.

These days, I’m partial to Rick Owens 4’in suede boots that I’ve been rocking for a couple years, they’re made for men, but the message sits in the gender bending category. My pen thin heel Ann Demeulemeesters gets only the occasional wear because in spite of it’s fierce line, the punishment it doles out is not dissimilar to kind seen depicted in Eric Stanton’s S&M illustrations. In heavy rotation right now is a pair of Rick’s thigh high space wedge that provides the same towering benefits as a stiletto.

I can casually discuss wearing high heels because I feel just that way about them. I like the idea of a man remixing a traditionally female item and making it his own, giving it new purpose. I would equate it to the feeling a woman gets when she dons a tailored pantsuit—she immediately harnesses the strength of the opposite sex. For me, wearing heels isn’t about dressing like a woman (strangely enough I’ve never done that); it’s about incorporating the unexpected item into a man’s wardrobe. It feels modern and new, which I always strive for in all my dressing choices.

And what a time for shoes–surely you’re seeing the radical creations that’s not only shown on the runways but that have converted women in every fashion capital to take to the streets. Alaia, Nina Ricci, Alexander Mcqueen, every designer has got a sky-high program going on. My Ricks have been getting a workout but on my trip to Paris last week, I wanted to push things further by bringing home a pair open-toe pumps from red hot Milan-based designer Alain Quilci. My host Lynda Real and Marc Gysin assumed the shoes was for a client but when I corrected them and said it was for me cried of ‘noooos’ ensued. Lynda thought it was ridiculous that I’d push around town in 6’in rocker stilettos. Then continued to pepper the wound with the offensive, ‘at your age’ adage. I thought the whole conversation was so interesting in that it highlighted how rigidly socialized gender garb is and how hard it can be to see beyond some of the tired uniforms (especially for men). I’ve always thrived on breaking gender rules–who made those rules up in the first place? Who said black and blue don’t match? White after Labor Day is a no no? Or that a man cannot get his thrills or makes his fashion statement in a pair of high heels?

In the shoe style game among fashionistas, is a man allowed in these ranks to make his own directional footwear statement wearing high heels?

I love to wear pumps. I like the extra height it gives. I like how the deep arches change the way you walk, steps become more confident, powerful. I even like the crushing squeeze that it causes on the ball of the feet.

If you knew me back in the early nineties, I’d always twist things up with the occasional debut of a killer high heel that a man could wear. Back then it was a metal heeled eggplant Shelly’s of London or a rust colored patent Red of Dead Red kettle heel Chelsea boot that I burned up the dance floor in from Heaven to Limelight. There was a questionable pair of Mary Janes I had platformed on Second Ave, but that one we can forget.

These days, I’m partial to Rick Owens 4’in suede boots that I’ve been rocking for a couple years, they’re made for men, but the message sits in the gender bending category. My pen thin heel Ann Demeulemeesters gets on;y the occasional wear because in spite of it’s fierce line, the punishment it doles out is not dissimilar to kind seen depicted in Eric Stanton’s S&M illustrations. In heavy rotation right now is a pair of Rick’s thigh high space wedge that provides the same benefits as a stiletto.

I can casually discuss wearing high heels because I feel just that way about it. I like the idea of a man remixing a traditionally female item and making it his own, giving it new purpose. I would equate to the feeling a woman gets when she dons a man tailored pantsuit—you immediately harness the strength of the opposite sex. For me, wearing heels wasn’t about dressing like a woman (strangely enough I’ve never done that); it’s about incorporating the unexpected item into a man’s wardrobe. It feels modern and new, which I always strive for in all my dressing choices.

And what a times for shoes–surely you’re seeing the radical creations that’s not only shown on the runways but that have converted women in every fashion capitol to take to the streets. Alaia, Nina Ricci, Alexander Mcqueen, every designer has got a sky-high program going on. My Ricks have been getting a workout but on my trip to Paris last week, I wanted to switch things up by bringing home a pair open-toe pumps from red hot Milan-based designer Alain Quilci. My host Lynda Real and Marc Gysin assumed the shoes was for a client but when I corrected them and said it was for me cried of ‘noooos’ ensued. Lynda thought it was ridiculous that I’d push around town in 6’in rocker pumps. Then continued to pepper the wound with the offensive, ‘at your age’ adage. I thought the whole conversation was so interesting in the sense that gender identity is so rigidly socialized for so many that it’s hard to see beyond some of the tired uniforms (especially for men). I’ve always thrived on breaking those gender rules–who made those rules in the first place? Who said black and blue don’t match? White after Labor Day is a no no? Or that a man cannot get his thrills or makes his fashion statement in a pair of high heels?

By the official end of Fashion Week, it’s information overload. I’ve seen and recorded a lot and to make sense of it all, I sit down with anyone of the number of editors/stylists/buyers in town to talk shop, to gather their take on the week, etc. As I mentioned on my Twitter page last week, one of the most debated subjects in Paris was, what was the worst show of the week? Ungaro’s disastrous’ debut with Lindsay Lohan as creative advisor was universally panned and deemed one of the worst. YSL was the other show that brought out the claws of the editors I spoke to. Considering Stephano Pilati’s strident steps for the house in previous seasons, the consensus was that the S/S 2010 show was so bad, it borderline on a joke. Editors were also annoyed at the house of Martin Margiela for their chicanery surrounding the ‘is he there, is he not’ debate. The official word is that he’s not there and hasn’t been for some time, which ticked off many for having been hoodwinked. Alexander Mcqueen’s fancy stage production and corresponding Web broadcast was also heavily discussed for its grandiose quality. While one couldn’t deny Mcqueen’s hyper-creativity and showmanship, there was murmur of the Brit trying too hard with his aggressive designs and distracting stage show—some quarters even leveled misogynistic criticism for having models wear those stilt-like10” platforms.

Stefan Hottinger-Behmer editor-in-chief of Gatsby Magazine was in town from Zurich and he filled me on the development with his magazine and their sponsorship of next month’s Stella Awards This year marks Stella’s 10th anniversary and to celebrate the occasion, they’re bringing back all the past winners for a showcase. While the award show is looking back, going forward, Gatsby (Switzerland’s much buzzed about lifestyle publication) has stepped in to replace Annabelle magazine, Stella’s longtime media partner. Stefan filled me in on other tidbits on the pulse of the Swiss market, its base for luxury advertising and the market’s general healthy forecast.

Speaking of magazines, in the past there were at least 3-5 new launches each season, now not so many. Daniel Wakahisa and editor-in-chief Valentina Illardi introduced me to Grey magazine. Grey is a hardcover book jammed with thoughtful editorials and a lot of writing. I didn’t make it to their Crillon launch party but they are now on my radar.

Im now back in New York for a two-week stint working on the many changes to launch this winter on JC Report. It’s then back home to Los Angeles and an intrigue trip to Stockholm at the end of the month.