Lyudmila Lane is the newest designer to join WHO’S NEXT’s roster of promising talent. The University of Creative Arts at Rochester alum impressed judges with a refined and accomplished debut collection called “Endless Sequence” that showcased her aptitude for sophisticated silhouettes and fine drapery. Now the fashion world is anticipating her first full collection, which will be displayed in the upcoming autumn/winter ‘12 Prêt-à-Porter trade show in Paris.
Lane’s collection was inspired as much by visual artists as by feminine mood. The energetic display of movement seen in Dutch artist Peter Jansen’s work (particularly his Human Motions exhibition) is manifested in the delicate, hand-sewn pleats that dominate each design. One particular highlight is a bias-cut pant suit that’s gathered at the hip and features gentle pleats diverging downwards into relaxed tapered legs and upwards into a one-sided cape. The work of French painter Suzanne Valadon is also present in Lane’s designs, specifically the artist’s “Ketty’s Etriant” pencil sketch, which the designer interprets through a somber mix of silvers and gradating grays with optimistic orange: a simple sleeveless gray shift dress is enhanced by a pleated front panel of dyed fabric that changes from charcoal to soft orange.
Lane describes her collection as an opportunity to express women’s moods, mainly through fluidity and diverse pleating. The collection also boasts elements of embroidery, mainly within the polyester pleats, and exaggerated collars that can be converted into capes. Lane successfully captures this unique combination of strength and sex appeal in her finale piece, a silk chiffon gown with twisting one-shoulder, cut-out details and thin pleating from bust to floor.