The latest fragrance buzz surrounds I Profumi di Firenze, a line that dates back to the time when the Medecis ruled Florence. In its second season selling at Barneys New York, the five-centuries-old line is getting notice for scents that are so intoxicating, the newly addicted are saying it rivals the act of having sex. Purity of essence is paramount thanks to the meticulous direction of apothecary and founder Dr. Giovanni di Massimo, who uncovered the 16th-century recipes in a Florentine basement in 1966. Each synthetic-free concoction of organically grown Italian floras with choice imported botanics easily assimilates (especially important for those with more sensitive skin) and results in the wearer’s own chemistry personalizing much of the final scent.

The cerebral essence of Florence’s dear purple iris serves as a basis for the label’s signature compositions of Acqua di Firenze and Caterina de Medici. The former evokes a honeysuckle scent of springtime rain, while the weightier latter relies on the charge of lily of the valley and Damascus flower embellishments to effects that are completely night and day. The classic shows a carnal side with the fired-up Melogranto Selvatico’s sharp wild Italian pomegranate, which intoxicates like the essence of lust itself. The earthy onset of musky tobacco (activated with sandalwood) and Ambra de Nepal (integrated with cardamom) are enhanced with Asian spices, making them bold and appealing to both sexes. Even the more straightforward of the bunch catch the nose in unexpected ways: Limone di Sicilia captures the pungency of the fruit without the acidity, while Vaniglia Del Madagascar captures the strength of vanilla without the commonly added sweetness, providing for a deeper overall effect.

These are the fragrances of true renaissance men and women: perfectly poised and worldly, robust and rich. In the discouragingly broad world of perfumery, where endorsements, licensing, and packaging have all too often pushed the art form into the background, I Profumi stands alone with its impeccable balance of complexity and strength, each scent expressing its own distinct personality. The only downside is a compulsion to want to keep the source of these gems secret. Sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves.

-David Morrow

Photos: I Profumi di Firenze