Just as Los Angeles’s Rick Owens has entered national notoriety under the not-so-accurate label of "new designer," Hollywood’s Magda Berliner has been awarded the media-friendly standing of "ultimate insider." She has famous friends, and they wear her clothes. Her husband, Alex Berliner, is the photographer of choice for Jewish rites of passage at the Dustin Hoffmans’ and for celebrities in need of a discrete passport photo. But family ties with sundry Stillers and Coppolas aside, Berliner has established herself as a designer to watch, working in the old-meet-new genre and whipping up quirky, seemingly one-of-a-kind pieces. The former I. Magnin shopgirl and Fred Segal manager, who as a child was watched over by the Hare Krishnas while her father minded the parking garage, is now in Fashion.
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To respond to consumer desire for faster delivery, easier transaction, and detailed product information, a hot new production technology called d.i.v.a was developed by the digital media solutions and production company iNDELIBLE.tv. Working for companies such as MAC, Chanel and Polo Ralph Lauren, iNDELIBLE.tv brings visual and knowledge assets to life for internal and external use in corporate branding and educational strategies with an eye on the new ways, in which consumers are buying and selling.
Living and designing in Rome but calling New York City his hometown by way of Trinidad is the shoe designer of-the-moment Lincoln Brown. His label, Lincoln’s NY serve up one-of-a-kind, masterly constructed, handmade shoes that look straight out of the Stone Ages by way of Firenze. After years of apprenticing with legendary East Village Cobbler Barbara Shaun and Italian shoe maestros Nicola Petrelli and Luigi Cataldo, three seasons ago Brown branched out on his own customizing made to order designs for an elite clientele, including myself. I don’t go a season without placing an order for one of his gladiator sandals, rock of ages boots or alligator flats. If you’re also a sap for, where did you get those greetings? Lincoln’s NY sells at Geraldine’s in New York City.
A new bohemian sensibility is turning up in the urban market, and this trend is set to explode in a wave of modern ethnic styles for men. This emerging style is directly attributed to the smooth, organic sounds of the Neo-soul movement coming out of Philadelphia and Brooklyn. In stark contrast to the knock-you-out, round-’em-up sounds of rap, artists like Bilal, Musiq Soulchild, Eric Benet, and The Roots have blazed onto the music scene serving up a soulful hybrid of R&B, hip-hop and acid jazz.
Edward Buchanan and Manuela Morin caught a little spotlight during the early Bottega Veneta ready-to-wear collections when they took the apres show bow with Laura Moltedo, Bottega’s then owner and creative director; Edward for the sumptuos knits and serious leather separates, Manuela for the waiting-list accessories. But after five years — after the graffiti collection and before the Gucci invasion — they left brimming with confidence, to start their own line. Leflesh is the name of their capsule line of leather goods and simple, intricate knots, at first designed for press only, but now, two seasons later, selling exclusively to stores thaat require exclusivity. This season’s "modern-day Alice in Wonderland" collection includes silk-tiered skirts, studded leather goods, and handmade pumps with labia appliques.