Chinese-born designer Huishan Zhang is making waves in the high fashion circuit with his intricate and delicate collections. As a Central St Martins student, Zhang was singled out by LVMH’s Delphine Arnaut to apprentice at Dior’s haute couture atelier. And now, with the help of a Deutsche Bank Award, Zhang is now developing his own niche and supportive clientele from his London-based studio.

Integrating his Chinese heritage with Western influences, Zhang creates romantic collections that are moving luxury forward. For his spring/summer ’12 collection, silhouettes are modern and strong with elements of traditional Chinese clothing seen in necklines and collar details. His white high-waist pencil skirt with subtle side slits and floor-length tailored gown with asymmetric neckline contour the feminine form. Zhang also has a gift for incorporating flirtatious details into garments with elegant finesse. A sheer, white, floor-length dress with a black and silver beaded hemline reveals a silk thigh-skimming tangerine dress underneath. Another example of this modest playfulness is evident Zhang’s short cocktail dresses with layered micro-mini ruffled skirts.

What makes Zhang’s collections so exciting is the designer’s distinguished eye for luxurious and intricate subtleties. His first autumn/winter ’11 collection exhibited beautiful coats with exaggerated lapels and matching tailored suits in perforated fabrics, delivering tear drop and floral graphics. His subsequent collection exhibits equal enthusiasm, but updated with lace and carefully executed bead work. Silk blouses, sleeveless tops and long dresses are accentuated with black-and-white lace sleeves, overlays and slips. Beading is black, white or silver and Zhang keeps the effect minimal so as not to overwhelm his overall sophisticated look. With an accomplished couture collection to match, we are keeping a close eye on Huishan Zhang.