May 5, 2005

The Charm of T.C.

By JC Report

Sometimes a collection comes along that simply captures the imagination. It’s not anchored in the cycle of fashion; it reads as a pure expression, well-timed with a selection of products that are delicate and desirable, modern and referential, casual and sensual. T.C. from Thierry Colson is one such recent discovery. Colson’s day job as a stylist for Numero and Vogue Hommes was interrupted last year when several experiences in his life culminated into him taking a trip to India to develop an all-white range of 18th century inspired, Lucknow embroidered collection. Angels, flowery stripes, and other manners of lush designs decorate boxer shorts, breeches, pajamas, shirts and shirt dresses mainly for men, but the pieces are destined to get nabbed by female clientele at United Arrows in Japan and Maria Luisa in Paris, where the line debuts later this spring. Victoriana influences are in fashion: Sofia Coppola is underway with a film on Marie Antoinette (which is bound to extend the trend), but somehow T.C. falls outside the sphere of this movement. At his Paris showroom, he sat down with Jason Campbell to discuss a lonely childhood, the visual cues that triggered the starting of the label, and the tongue-in-cheek, naughty-and-niceness of it all.

JCR: How personal is T.C.? It’s your initials, after all.

TC: It’s really close to me. I initially approached it as something to do for my pleasure because I needed something creative apart from all the editorial work. And at home and at the beach I wear a lot of pajamas, so I thought what a great business idea to create clothes for people going away in the winter to warm places, for example. T.C. are my initials, but it also stands for The Cat. I love cats, but due to legal reasons I couldn’t name the label the cat — but it is our logo…

JCR: Was it such a practical endeavor? Were you going through something in your life that said this is the right time for these delicate, soft, intimate pieces?

TC: Well, yes. I had recently gone to India with Marko, an ex, to discover the country with him. And I was finishing work at [the magazine] Mixte and felt that I wanted to start something very deep, to do something really from me.

JCR: I like the lost-in-the-attic feeling of the line. Do childhood memories figure in the collection?

TC: I was a very lonely boy. I’m an only child. And I grew up in my grandmother’s old Victorian house and the attic was full of costumes and I really love period costumes, especially 18th-century ones. I like the idea that the pieces don’t look new. That was deliberate — they were washed over and over again.

JCR: What struck me is the delicate hand. Why so soft?

TC: So soft because I’m a really romantic person. And I have this image in my head from several years ago in Brazil when I found a delicate pair of embroidered boxer shorts on the beach. So that had stayed in my mind.

JCR: The 18th-century references are there, and the Indian as well — but it also defies a specific time reference.

TC: I like the idea that you forget. It’s not obviously Indian, it’s like you take something from India and transform it. All the proportions are really Western; it has nothing to do with Indian garments. It’s like Casanova going to India and coming back.

JCR: Why all white?

TC: I needed to be clearer in my life maybe. India is a country of color and I’m really a color person but I love white lace and wanted to use it. And also white to make the collection clear in my mind — to focus on the cuts and the details.

JCR: It’s obviously a story of details, but also of cuts.

TC: Every pattern is made in France. All the proportions are well researched. It’s very well studied.

JCR: Did you buy the textiles as such or did you have all the embroidery done?

TC: I had all the embroidery done. One, for example, is an angel that I saw in a photo on the wall in Prague. I needed angels in this collection and it was quite relatable to the 18th century. The stripes, for example, are traditionally Indian but they usually add more features — the pattern is not used repetitively as I do here in this collection.

JCR: Is it a fashion story?

TC: Yes, some of the pieces are really fashionable. But I started with men really because I thought it would be funny to do boys — to put men in such delicate things.

JCR: And the sex appeal?

TC: I’m not the one to wear a g-string. And the Japanese go crazy for the collection because the collection is really innocent and perverse at the same time.

JCR: That’s what got my attention. I see the innocence but I see the eroticism as well. Is it an intimate collection?

TC: I started off with boxers and then added pajamas and shirts. I think it’s intimate, but at the same time it’s beachwear and things to wear at home. I wear these boxers with a cashmere sweater at home and it’s really chic.

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