During our visit to Kuala Lumpur earlier this month, Khoon Hooi was the most talked-about local brand. Singaporean journalist — and dear friend — Cat Ong arrived at dinner one night decked in a Hooi satin shift (sprinkled with paillettes as trimmings) and cooed about the designer’s “It” status. Meanwhile, all the local press waxes lyrical about the modern femininity that defines the line. We talked to creative director Lee Khoon Hooi about his local success, international momentum, Malaysian design identity, and expansion plans for his ten-year-old label.

JC Report: 
Does Khoon Hooi have a signature style?

Lee Khoon Hooi: 
Khoon Hooi’s signature style is feminine, fluid, sensual, and sophisticated.

JCR: 
Tell us about your virtually all-white spring ’08 collection.

LKH: 
The s/s ’08 collection is titled “Making Waves.” The inspiration comes from the sea and sealife: the colors derive from the sea sand, seawater, and marine life, using natural fabrics like cotton linen, silk satin, tulle, and silk cotton. Mother nature is a constant source of inspiration.

JCR: 
How do trends figure into your design program?

LKH: 
I track the trends, but create designs along my own style by delving deeper into the form, fit, and cut.

JCR: 
What defines Malaysian dress sense?

LKH: 
Malaysian women’s dress sense has evolved over the years, but generally women here are slightly reserved and conservative. They do wear bustiers, tank tops, and strapless shirts, but nothing outrageous or daring. These days, they are more well-traveled and are exposed to all the styles and fashions the world has to offer, so they know cut, style, quality, and brand names. Malaysian women are stylish, trendy, and fashionable.

JCR: 
How does a Kuala Lumpur-based designer engage the fashion industry at large?

LKH: 
Since mid-’05, Alison A. Rodrigues has been the consultant that was responsible for the marketing and development of business expansion internationally — starting with supply to Kuwait, then Taiwan, the UK, and the US. She was instrumental and forward-thinking in committing Khoon Hooi’s participation in international fashion trade events and establishing strong business networks and liaisons in the industry. Also, more and more international interest and trade were established through international fashion events. From there, our collection was discovered by Access USA last year and, through them, we appointed The Green Room NYC. We now supply to 13 states.

JCR: 
Tell us about your 2008 expansion efforts in the US and other regions.

LKH: 
With the appointment of Access USA as our brand manager and rep office, and now with The Green Room NYC as our showroom agent, we see a continued growth in other key markets and other established retailers, like high-end fashion-brand stores. We are looking into effective press and public-relations efforts, store events, and fashion trade events for 2008.

JCR: 
How do you envision your business in five years?

LKH: 
We envision it to be a label and brand name of the fashion world, like 3.1 Phillip Lim and Valentino, for years to come. Legendary and beguiling. In five years, we would be in all the fashion capitals: New York, London, Paris, Milan, Shanghai, Sydney, Tokyo, and more.

This interview was conducted by Jason Campbell