We’ve nearly suffocated here at JC Report on meritless designs in the old-meets-new DIY genre. Used t-shirts with a slash there, silly skirts with random ruching here, and thoughtless, poorly distressed denims with limp appliqués produce nothing short of a yawn. Retailers, however, continue to rely on these mad confections, albeit more seasoned examples, to keep shop floors tooting bells and whistles. Barney’s New York prominently displays Imitation of Christ (like it or not it’s one of the more polished offerings in the genre). Paris based E2 continue to titillate with refined couture-like recreations. Los Angeleno Magda Berliner features only intelligent and well-tailored reconstructions. And Mei Hui Liu’s namesake line of one-offs steeped in cut-and-paste frilling and Victorian lacing fills her Victim Boutique on Fashion Street (a coup of an address) in London’s East End, while more basic embellished separates sell internationally at stores including Language in New York, United Arrows in Tokyo, and Dada in Hong Kong. Fashion show attendees have been tracking Liu since her student days when she wore Chanel accessories and self-created Shibuyaku ensembles-which she still wears-and which serve as the inspiration for the label. This one is the real deal.

- Jason Campbell
Photo: Mei Hui Liu fall 2003 collection