For those of you itching to witness the revival of the house of Vionnet under Maurizio Pecoraro’s creative direction, be patient. It has been announced that Pecoraro’s premiere couture collection for the revered couture house will be shown in January 2004, following the withdrawal of the presentation in July 2003. What makes this case particularly intoxicating is that Madeleine Vionnet was one of the most influential designers of the last century. She was, together with Chanel and Poiret, responsible for freeing women from the corset and, more famously, for inventing the ingenious bias cut -quite a history for a descendant to live up to. Pecoraro was reportedly as surprised as he was excited at the prestigious offer proposed by Kuwait retailer Majed Al-Sabhe and the Vionnet family last November. The Italian designer promises to stay true to the Grand Dame’s unique cutting techniques, some of which he already practices, notably the way he drapes and creates his garments straight from a mannequin. This, along with his signature exquisite feminine tailoring and delicate handcrafted touch, makes him the most tasty candidate to pull the revival task off with grace and dignity.
- Emma Holmquist
Photo: Maurizio Pecoraro