In London, Rafael Lopez
carries the Spanish flag, but back at home (where Lopez showed his well received R. lo collection), David Delfin
are two labels buzzing the Spanish capital. Delfin and his close knit group of collaborators have been on the radar since their spring 2002 Cour des miracles
presentation that controversially mixed religious, social and sexual messages (the culmination of which depicted models, some with crucifixes around their necks, donning covered headgear). For spring, Delfin led his alternative tribe of fashion provocateurs down a gender-bending road of confidently dark, hybrid ensembles that was all urbane edginess. Working with black, white, gray and denim — color wasn’t the big story in the collection — Delfin instead focused on challenging the eye with trompe l’oeil detailing; jeans that appear to have unusually long cuffs, cityscape on dresses, collared t-shirts with straps and buttons and tuxedo detailing and belting, all on one pant. Strong tailoring and flawless fits reined in some of these features that could otherwise read tricky. Fittingly, with the theme of gender identity, Delfin roped in the porno trend that’s been covered on these pages, sending out a raw selection of illustrated private parts on t-shirts and jeans that was cheeky but not gratuitous. And it’s this sticking to his artful point of view, which has become the label’s signature, that’s winning it creative accolades (and audience) for having something to say.
When Claudia Fabra, a glamorous new generation representative of Magrit, the 150-year-old family owned shoe manufacturer/label begins to tell you of a refreshed energy in the company that will have its shoes selling at Jeffrey and Barneys New York for the first time this spring, our ears perked. Labels including Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Sergio Rossi and Donna Karan are clients of Magrit’s design and manufacturing expertise, but the label is stepping forward to put a modern image on their own branded shoes, which also includes the opening of the sprawling Amat and Fabra store in Madrid. Not doing away with their bread and butter designs that have their footwear on all generations of women in Spain and across Europe, Magrit is spicing up the brand with new flavor that calls for four-inch high coral python pumps with contrasting black stitching, Swarvoski encrusted satin sling backs and a general cornucopia of hot footwear that’s going head to head with other better known brands in the luxury category.
Photos: David Delfin spring 2005
Amat and Fabra