A cacophony of more prints (to pop that kernel that started heating up in London and carried on in Milan at Versace, Alessandro Dell Aqua, Pucci, and Gianfranco Ferre), thematic pinup vixens (D&G, D Squared, Iceberg), and imaginative knits (Leflesh, Giulia Persanti, Max Mara, Missoni and Sansovino 6) were some of the key suggestions from Italy. But it was a whiff of the conceptual at Capucci that dusted off ’50s house, now in its second season of revival under the creative direction of Bernhard Willhelm that had Milan astir during the catwalk shows. Instead of showing on a runway that would have overshadowed the mostly sportswear clothes with as refreshing a sensibility as Adidas’ Y3 continues to deliver, Capucci wisely showed a graphic and highly vibrant collection in lemon, forest green, sky blue, black and white cotton, wafer viscose and wool, both on static mannequins and paraded on models. While Armand Hadida, owner of influential L’Eclaireur in Paris scribbled orders and American Vogue‘s Sally Singer inspected the nifty shoe collection and took in the quirky video as part of the presentation; editors took close inspection of a massive selection of fresh looking clothes all taking on the classic Capucci box and circle concept. This meant pullovers with circular flaps, simple cotton skirts and tops with undulating rope detailing, t-shirts and skirts with squared-off sleeves and hemming, tennis shirts with button-around collars and pleated Grecian dresses contributed by the visionary Spanish designer Sybilla. Lookout for the buzz come spring.

- Jason Campbell
Photo: Capucci Spring 2004