It’s not just the big hitters that are driving the industry: editorial darlings Jonathan Saunders and Kim Jones have been going strong for more than two years and enjoying formidable success as the go-to brands for fashion-forward boys. Saunders’ signature print expertise and graphic strokes make him highly sought after by Pucci, Chloé, and McQueen. Kim Jones (who we profiled here last season as a major rising star) was the first ever menswear designer to win the New Generation Award during London Fashion Week. Following in Jones’ footsteps this season is newcomer Martin Andersson and his capsule collection for High Street store Topman. Andersson’s skinny tailoring channels a bit of Helmut Lang; touched up with bright colors, stripes, and other easy decorations his work makes him one to watch. Skinny is high on the agenda for Benjamin Kirchhoff as well, whose sexy and wearable skull-slogan harness is a spring must-have.
London is not only breeding homegrown talent, foreign designers are choosing to stay there long after their Central St Martins’ days. Take for example the London-based Swedish designers Peter Jensen and Siv Stoldal. They’ve been flying the Union Jack for menswear for a couple of years with collections that are masculine and subtly sexy. Both of them have proved very popular with the style press and have begun popping up in trendy boutiques outside of London. With the a/w ’05/’06 menswear shows in full swing, the up-and-comers in London sit quietly in the wings, building their portfolios, and waiting to storm the international stage.
Photos: John Galliano s/s ’05
Stiv Stodal s/s ’05
Johnathan Saunders s/s ’05
Peter Jensen s/s ’05