Ten years ago, the idea that London’s menswear collections might reach an exciting pinnacle wasn’t quite real. But today, Brits are starting to put a stamp on menswear without falling back on obvious references to Savile Row suiting. Christopher Bailey is working with a sure hand on his Burberry Prorsum collections, bringing everyone to their feet last season with his David Hockney color palette, and this season came back even stronger with a super-tailored tartan-filled trek through the British Highlands. The mayhem of John Galliano’s women’s line recently extended to his menswear collection, winning celebrity endorsements and securing copious editorial pages. And Alexander McQueen’s first showing in Milan became an instant must-see and was packed to the rafters during his second presentation earlier this week.

It’s not just the big hitters that are driving the industry: editorial darlings Jonathan Saunders and Kim Jones have been going strong for more than two years and enjoying formidable success as the go-to brands for fashion-forward boys. Saunders’ signature print expertise and graphic strokes make him highly sought after by Pucci, Chloé, and McQueen. Kim Jones (who we profiled here last season as a major rising star) was the first ever menswear designer to win the New Generation Award during London Fashion Week. Following in Jones’ footsteps this season is newcomer Martin Andersson and his capsule collection for High Street store Topman. Andersson’s skinny tailoring channels a bit of Helmut Lang; touched up with bright colors, stripes, and other easy decorations his work makes him one to watch. Skinny is high on the agenda for Benjamin Kirchhoff as well, whose sexy and wearable skull-slogan harness is a spring must-have.

London is not only breeding homegrown talent, foreign designers are choosing to stay there long after their Central St Martins’ days. Take for example the London-based Swedish designers Peter Jensen and Siv Stoldal. They’ve been flying the Union Jack for menswear for a couple of years with collections that are masculine and subtly sexy. Both of them have proved very popular with the style press and have begun popping up in trendy boutiques outside of London. With the a/w ’05/’06 menswear shows in full swing, the up-and-comers in London sit quietly in the wings, building their portfolios, and waiting to storm the international stage.

-Marc Taylor

Photos: John Galliano s/s ’05
Stiv Stodal s/s ’05
Johnathan Saunders s/s ’05
Peter Jensen s/s ’05