Climate change is apparent: summer just isn’t how it used to be. Gone are the days of heat waves and hosepipe bans. A brief stint of sunshine is whitewashed by a heavy dose of rain, and warm days are followed by cold, chilly nights. For London Fashion Week, designers witnessing the unpredictable English summer fashioned a look for all weathers. The forecast for s/s ’06 freely blows hot and cold. A collection that played with this concept of crossover seasons was that of Jonathan Saunders. He successfully manipulated light fabrics with cold, metallic prints of gold, silver, and blue. It was reminiscent of autumnal shades, but the effect was softened by the use of white and balanced out by bare arms and legs. A debate over the virtues of weight versus weightlessness was reflected in the multicolored braiding of fabric that seemed to unravel and float at the hem.

The calm before the storm was evident in the collection of designers Sinha-Stanic, whose show was dominated by a cool, conservative ethos. The presentation was set in a church, and the location captured the purity and minimalism of the collection. White, stone, and ecru were combined with touches of yellow and black; soft illustrations in blues and reds portrayed a season of grace and maturity. Muted tones highlighted precision-cut garments; crochet skirts and knit dresses, layers of chiffon, and soft tailoring on tapered trousers and jackets with three-quarter length sleeves were emphasized in this nostalgic collection. As with Preen‘s use of dusty pink and Aquascutum‘s nautical theme, the powers of understatement were loud and clear.

Basso & Brooke stormed the catwalk with their illuminated collection. Flamboyant, vivid prints — the trademark of this design duo — were depicted on everything! Leggings were brought out in full force; teamed with blouses and belts, they weren’t covered up with mini skirts. It was a proclamation to us all not to hide the rump! Skirts gave reference to the ’50s rock ‘n roll era — billowing out with brightly colored net fabric. Contrasting colors and layers of opposing fabrics seem to encapsulate the shows. Blacks and grays — the recognized winter palette — were mixed with sharp or fresh colors as seen on the runways of C-neeon and Fashion East designers Spijkers en Spijkers. Bold prints by Michiko Koshino and Fashion Fringe winner Erdem Moralioglu were bright yet restrained. Mouth-watering colors, like calypso orange and zesty yellow, were toned down by dark floral prints, ruched jackets, and chiffon. Although there were hints of black in most collections, Jen Laugesen demonstrated that a large expanse of black works for any season when coupled with tapered trousers featuring a loosely fitted crotch, sleeveless, oversized dinner jackets, and the layering of light and heavy fabrics. Similarly, Ann-Sofie Back‘s collection was drenched in black with a ’90s feel of figure-hugging, slash-neck dresses and high-waisted trousers.

Contrast was pushed further at Gharani Strok, who utilized various fabrics and textures. The collection evoked Greek goddesses: chiffon was accentuated by large, chunky chains swaggering over light, feminine dresses. Similarly, Future Classics mastered the combination of chiffon blouses with baggy jersey trousers and leggings. Bora Aksu confirmed that crochet will play a major role next season, showing oversized, hand-knit bags, heavily crocheted shorts and woven, open-toe boots. Large and long zippers were on display at Giles, with noticeable zipping on the backs of angular, unfitted short dresses; Ashish also used zippers with his modified biker jacket. Likewise, Mario Schwab brought the zip-up bustier dress back, which was very nostalgic of ’90s Versace. London fashion proves that eclectic has taken on a new form. Mix fabrics, indulge in prints, wear black, and go ’90s. It’s up to you, come rain or come shine.

-Njide Ugboma

Photos:
Bora Aksu s/s ’06
Jen Laugesen s/s ’06
Sinha-Stanic s/s ’06
4-5 Jonathan Saunders s/s ’06
Basso & Brooke s/s ’06