This is not your grandmother’s duster. The soon-to-be hot baby doll/muumuu is cut about the knee, is oversized so that it slips suggestively off the shoulder, and looks right for St. Barts, Bali, and everywhere in between. The look is slightly lascivious and deliberately coquettish.
Tsumori Chisato‘s extremely strong marine themed spring collection delivered some of the best examples of the hot frock: she offered a plunging, button-down version in white; others were color-blocked, one came peach and puffy-sleeved with multi-hued triangles, and yet another variety was in coral reef tints with many cascading layers. The dress appeared with splendid proportions at Prada, who concocted perfect waistless shirt-dresses. At Miu Miu it turned dainty and tough in crinkled metallic gold and igneous fabrications, resulting in in voluminous proportions and Lolita-like. Marni did it up as romantic bohemian, decorated with magpie adornments of wooden discs, beads, and jet-black sequins.
Anna Sui plundered Claude Monet’s Giverny garden for inspiration, plucking leaves and petals for her prints, while flowers with crocheted detailing burst from her baby-doll dress. At Sonia Rykiel, the dress came in a smashing red with a heavy, ruffled neckline; Marc by Marc Jacobs injected a subtle hint of Courtney Love’s angst-ridden "kinderwhore," replete with disheveled hair, a black wristband, and leggings. Elsewhere, a quiet, ecclesiastical innocence was pervasive. Chloé‘s version was sparingly accessorized but meticulously detailed; precise volumes in black and white radiated a Zurbaran-like reverence to piety. This mood was also captured by the nubile countenance of Natalia Vodianova in sheer white at Calvin Klein.
If some designers are striving for obvious prettiness with a twist, then the hyper volumes and obese proportions seen at Moschino, Wunderkind, and Bernard Wilhelm tipped the scales into the beautiful avant-garde.
Celebrity stylist Wouri Vice chimes in: "even though I hate to admit this, I think this granny’s house coat look will catch on for sure. It hides shape whether you are big or small. And there is still a splash of color so they feel sexy and feminine. But I pray this trend doesn’t last long."
The total look for spring? ’60s in length, sack-like in proportion, and a sex appeal you’re required to bring to the party.
- Robert Cordero
1-2 Tsumori Chisato s/s ’06
Prada s/s ’06
Chloé s/s ’06
Marni s/s ’06
Calvin Klein s/s ’06
Miu Miu s/s ’06
Bernard Wilhelm s/s ’06