Even with Swedish fashion darlings such as Sandra Backlund, Helena Hörstedt and Ann-Sofie Back conspiciously absent from Stockholm Fashion Week autumn/winter ’09-’10, there were several noteworthy moments during the three-day event.

At the Millesgarden Art Museum, Acne presented both menswear and womenswear collections, including a painted biker jacket worn over a twisted crepe dress for “a rather eccentric woman” and a drawstring goatskin vests over a pleated silk shirt for the “man [who] is equally passionate about contrasting his fabrics.”

The Local Firm, a gritty star rising on the Swedish fashion scene, based its collection on “a creative take on linings and clothing interiors,” while Mercedes-Benz Young Fashion Industry Award winner Nhu Duong created a reptilian, almost aquatic womenswear line, experimenting with materials and shapes. Max Factor Award recipient Diana Orving’s “Cover” collection contrasted the movement of jersey and silk, with gold foil accents.

Meanwhile, Ida Sjöstedt and Carin Rodebjer brought a splash of color to the otherwise rather dark Swedish palette—the former inspired by ’60s and ’70s groupies and rock stars, and the latter basing her line on 19th century intellectual rebel Nancy Cunard, along with touches of plaid and accessories such as riding helmets.

Other highlights included Cheap Monday, the denim label known for its skull logo with an upside down cross on the forehead. For the presentation, models trudged down the runway in somber Little Rascals-style outfits, complete with crudely constructed cardboard hats.

Even in the dark Scandinavian winter, these shining fashion stars proved that there’s always a beacon of light radiating from the North.

—Charlotte West