At Copenhagen Fashion Week last week, the Danes once again proved their penchant for creating fashion that is as easy to wear as it is on the eye. The shows featured lots of fantasy, fur, geometric details and plenty of drapery for an overall feel of whimsical finery.
Opening act, Louise Amstrup, showed for the first time in her native country, presenting a futuristic collection inspired by the 1985 film Mad Max that featured surprising contradictions of color and femininity in an otherwise somber palette. On being back on her home turf, the London-based designer said: “Over the past few years you can really see how Copenhagen has grown as a fashion city and has also been acknowledged internationally.”
Rising stars on the Danish fashion scene included post-rock inspired Wackerhaus and Vilsbøll de Arce, whose dark and alienesque “Woven Armor” collection included their first menswear line. Bibi Ghost’s “Dead Snow” collection was subtle without being prosaic, featuring touches of crocodile print, while Stine Goya’s sequined extravaganza “Black Spectacle” was built around metallic fabric, rigidly structured silk pieces and heavy black and bronze embroidery. The circus-inspired show featured two gymnasts undulating on swings as the models strolled down the catwalk.
Other shows featured a touch of the surreal with MoonSpoon Saloon’s Cat in the Hat-like papier mâché hats as well as Henrik Vibskov’s human hamster wheels. Vibskov’s Wilhelmenian-inspired menswear included wide, high-waisted pants worn with oversized suspenders and loose fitting jackets, while the ladies donned patterned jumpsuits and silky pants. In a venue at the self-declared republic of Christiania, Vibskov’s show was open to anyone with DKK 75 or two packs of cigarettes. Those who were lacking cash or smokes could alternately “bring a washboard and a kazoo” and play a tune to get in for free, which goes to show that Danish fashion is well suited to those who aren’t afraid to think outside the box.