New York Fashion Week: Bespoken Speaks Up

While long-lasting British labels such as Turnbull & Asser have dressed important figures from Winston Churchill to James Bond, the niche remains largely inaccessible to the younger, hipper set. Until now, that is. While rushing between shows, we happened upon Bespoken, a line that defies the stuffy tradition of upper class sophistication. The chic British label offers an updated version on the refinement of lines like Turnbull & Asser, while opening the door to a new era of masculine style.

Bespoken’s signature look consists of classic shirts and jackets with a twist. The blazers are shorter and more form fitting, with a subtle red detail on every collar and lapel. The shirts, too, are fitted and mod influenced, with wrap around collars. “This is what the son of a Turnbull & Asser customer would wear,” explained Liam Fayed, who co-founded the line with his brothers James and Sammy as well as Carlos Gonçalvez. “There are a lot of pieces that are quirky, but still safe.”

Everything is handmade and in a limited edition, embroidered with a number from 1 to 100. The subtle intricacies and attention to detail make Bespoken a wonderfully interesting and innovative brand, the likes of which we have not seen in years.

Of this unique approach, Liam says: “We’ve seen a shift in customers wanting garments that mean something, that have a story behind them.” These narrative garments have brought Bespoken a great deal of early success. The line has found a place next to Dior, Paul Smith and Gucci on the designer floor of Harrods in London, and sits comfortably with John Varvados at Bloomingdales in New York.

As newcomers, this is a comfortable position to be in, but business is still challenging. With customers increasingly cautious about their spending, Bespoken’s autumn/winter ‘09 collection adopts a simpler palette, while the patterns are even more tasteful than season’s past.

“The autumn/winter ‘09 collection draws inspiration from the post-war fashion movement in Britain that occurred after the ’50s,” explains Sammy, the collection’s main designer. “The pieces are more functional and utilitarian and are made from more textured and raw fabrics. The likes of Ian Curtis, Factory Records and northern England are some of the influential images that inspired the story behind this collection.”

The result is an increased relevance and a nod to the brand’s adaptability. This new collection is markedly different from previous designs, but remains cohesive and continuous with Bespoken’s sophisticated aesthetic. The offspring of Turnbull & Asser have carried the torch, and made classic English traditionalism into something interesting, fresh and new. Perhaps it’s only a matter of time before we see James Bond wearing a tight shirt with a wrap around collar, or a red detail on his suit’s lapel.

For more information, see www.bespokenclothiers.com.

—Michael Miller