During São Paulo Fashion week, there’s one name that tastemakers, journalists and fashionistas all look forward to: Alexandre Herchcovitch. The 38-year-old designer is known for pushing buttons that most of his Brazilian colleagues don’t dare even consider—a high level of pressure that’s now coupled with the equally lofty expectations of his new financial backer, Inbrands. But Herchcovitch’s spring/summer ’10 collection was unaffected by such tension.

The runway featured inspirational womenswear and flawless menswear that was accessible, yet fierce. Though aesthetically different, both lines revealed Herchcovitch’s talent for mixing couture and sartorial details. The result featured pattern cutting, up to date sportswear references and a dash of punk and grunge styling.

American football was the main reference among the womenswear, best exhibited in team uniform-inspired, tribal color blocking on leggings, mini dresses and an amazing sequence of latex rubber shift dresses and tops. The sturdy volume of athletic uniforms also made for dramatic shoulder shapes, but were feminized with soft frills, lace and fetish corset finishing.

For the menswear show, Herchcovitch combined a dandy aesthetic with his general street sports theme—think fitted suits, vests, bow ties, coats, canes and hats mixed with bermuda shorts, sleeveless tops, nylon coats and caps. Despite these seemingly disparate threads, the collection had a sartorial feel and offered new proposals for suit styling: tucked in blazers, vests worn with loose tops underneath and a blazer with shorts.

—Flávia Mendonça