With big names and rising stars at London Fashion Week on Saturday, crowds were spoiled with choices. Kinder Aggugini, Ashish, Charles Anastase and PPQ particularly stole the spotlight with a range of boundary-pushing collections.

Aggugini’s “Loss of Innocence” collection was a bold, bright exploration of vintage cuts and silhouettes, specifically Victorian and Crimean War uniforms transformed to suit the female form. While that may sound a tad too serious, the collection was actually upbeat, even humorous at times—the gigantic “shower cap” hats had an Alice in Wonderland feel and the models’ little girl ringlets managed to be cute and creepy at the same time. Polka dots, union jacks, stripes and snake skin in a variety of colors also made for an eccentric show that had crowds swooning.

No one sums up London’s cutting edge reputation more than Ashish, who continues to do absolute wonders with sequins—combining fun and frivolity with a craftsman’s skill. To suit the vacation atmosphere, his collection featured the symbols of classic destinations and tourist treats such as the Eiffel Tower, “Italians do it better” slogan tops, fanny packs, palm trees and Hawaiian prints—kitschy emblems that never strayed into the tacky. The collection was rounded out with shift dresses, slouch tops and short cut jackets, all of which were so beautifully crafted that everything, no matter how loud, felt incredibly wearable.

Charles Anastase once again pulled in the local celebs, as the Geldofs, Alexa Chung and company lined the front row for a show that never fails to draw the brightest young things. The result was a relatively serene collection—beautiful and feminine with a little something for everyone. The gigantic balloon skirts had a theatrical feel, while cropped jackets and tulip skirts offered a less challenging option. Colors ranged from rust orange to caramel brown, beige and soft pink—an accessible palette that complemented Anastase’s trademark balance of comfort, eccentricity and playfulness.

To end an impressive day, PPQ made a genuinely refreshing statement on London’s catwalk by casting all black models. The collection itself was also up to Amy and Percy’s usual high standards: pretty, wearable party pieces that will no doubt filter down to the high street faster than the blink of the eye. Frills and bows, pink and black, cropped and long—a crowd pleaser no matter your style inclinations, the amazing geometric/candy jar print that featured heavily throughout the collection will be to everyone’s taste.

—Lena Dystant