Whoever scheduled Jeremy Scott for the 10 am slot on Tuesday must have had a sense of humor. The bleary eyed showgoers were in for a rude awakening with a show that brought cartoons to life in a no-holds-barred Flintstones-inspired spectacular. The front row was lined with pink Longchamp bone print bags, which was just the beginning of an over the top stone age collection. Models took to the catwalk—with bones in hair—in a series of acid bright Wilma dresses, cropped biker jackets, crazy-fur stoles and RaRa skirts with revealing swimwear for the boys as well as the girls. Saber toothed tiger print was used throughout and the whole collection carried the trademark Flintstones zigzag hem. Yabba-dabba-do indeed.
Peter Jensen, meanwhile, stepped away from the catwalk for a low-key presentation at the ICA. His Laurie collection, a collaboration with photographer Laurie Simmons, was an imaginative affair. Like a peek into the world of a doll’s house, Jensen chose to show outfits in two-dimensional cardboard cut-outs that ranged from miniature to large scale sizes and were placed around the room. Everything was bright and had a characteristic element of tongue-in-cheek fun. From Americana to picnic cloth gingham, workwear inspired jackets and quirky prom dresses, Jensen’s favorite shades of bright yellow and powder blue were in attendance alongside emerald green, navy and red. Particular favorites among the bunch included a rabbit print cardigan and floral print trousers, while quirky oversized pearls and a Melon bag offered nice touches. Peter Jensen’s brand of multicolored eccentric seems to be a success season after season.
Fashion East, an organization founded by Lulu Kennedy to showcase emerging talent, was, as always, a much sought after ticket. And, having introduced the likes of Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab, Jonathan Saunders and Louise Goldin, it’s easy to understand why. Taking the alternative route as usual, this year’s show was held in the basement vaults of Somerset House. Holly Fulton was up first with a skyline inspired collection that had more than a touch of the “Metropolis” about it. The Expressionist “blueprint” designs were absolutely beautiful, as were the shift dresses, tunic tops and a fantastic structured short jacket, while colors ranged from monochrome to orange and yellow and the perspex accessories set everything off perfectly.
Next up, Heikki Salonen reworked tailored pieces and kept things simple with black, white, navy and beige. Standouts of the collection were the line print white trousers and long length sleeveless blazers. The whole collection felt ice cool and satisfyingly stark. Michael Van Der Ham, meanwhile, chose to construct quite literal pieces by taking clashing patterns, textures and fabrics and bringing them together to create asymmetric dresses and skirts—in other words: patchwork at its most modern.