Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren went wild with tulle for their spring/summer ’10 Viktor & Rolf collection, creating dresses and separates to remind everyone that fashion can still be fantasy.
Moloko’s Roisin Murphy took the stage seven months pregnant wearing one of V&R’s tutu creations that hid any signs of a baby bump. Models were similarly sent out with bright colored tulle, tightly packed to create geometric shapes that were then placed on the hips, cascading over the shoulder or running vertebrae-like down the front on the body. Though visually bold, the effect actually worked more commercially when the tulle was used to fashion tufty frilling on skirt hem. Grace Jones was channeled in the flattop hairstyles and technicolor makeup, but this was no simple rehashing of the ’80s—beneath the dramatic effect of candy colored tulle were sweet embroidered silk blouses, tuxedo bolero jackets and drop crotch pants. And while these items will find an audience for their quirky designs, it was Eau Mega, the label’s latest fragrance (with a genius cloud shape pump), that was distributed at the show, where they can expect to make a killing.
Meanwhile, at Givenchy yesterday, Riccardo Tisci found a sweet spot for his aggressive luxury, which uniquely balanced the commercial with the edgy.
The Moroccan lantern printed on the invitation hinted at the Arabic theme for Tisci exotic journey, but that was just the tip of the iceberg. The aesthetic direction was most notably revealed in the kaffiyeh scarf prints blown up and digitized, worn in head-to-toe-looks from shoes to jacket, bags and leggings, while some looks were even topped off with a reinterpreted Fez hat in leather and made more conical. The grouping of gauzy short dresses in mint and flesh colors didn’t hold up to theme, but they were beautifully delicate and chic. Softly tailored jackets in graphic black and white stripes, heaps of harem pants,and a procession of the most vertiginous wedges seen this season rounded out a confident and sure-to-sell collection.