While Riley Keogh, granddaughter of Elvis Presley (“The King”), is currently tearing
up the worlds of fashion and advertising, last year Suzy Menkes dubbed a much
quieter, but equally influential, individual ” King.” She was referring to
Azzedine Alaia, the King of Cling, and a man who, in his own discreet,
couture-infused way, has written and rewritten the rules of dressing to seduce.
Spurning show seasons for increasingly rare intimate showings (we’re still waiting
for the next one), his influence is felt repeatedly throughout the fashion world,as a
reference point for designers, and for the critics who chide those designers for
too-literal reworkings of his ideas. One of the areas where Alaia is increasingly drawing
attention is not those perfect black jersey dresses but what goes under them — the
shoes. Sarah Jessica Parker, the woman who elevated Manolo Blahnik to an
international name, has found a new footwear darling in Alaia.

The Tunisian-born
designer’s collection for fall, at his incredibly secret but soaring Paris store (opened
in 1990 with Julian Schnabel-designed fittings) and at Maria Luisa, is, apart, from a very few low heels,
all about contrast. We’re talking sweet ballet flats in black suede, leopard-print ponyskin,
opalescent snake, or resplendent with silver bubble decoration, or the opposite —
vertical heels with a vertiginous drop. A lightly bound ankle and a foot caressed
with intertwining straps secured with a tiny patent bow softens a look that goes
electric with slinky suede knee boots in leopard, black, and devil woman red. The footwear
line has existed since the earliest clothes collections of the ’80s, but waned and
disappeared at the end of the ’90s. The designer’s partnership with Prada,
however, gave him access to the manufacturing resources to relaunch and expand the
line two years ago. The result is that Alaia, while remaining out of sight and frequently
surrounded by a protective wall of ardent female disciples, creates the kind of footwear that
makes (other) men sit up and take notice.

-Karl Treacy

Photos:
Alaia shoes at Maria Luisa