Currently in America we’re witnessing the fast burning brooch trend and in its place women will continue to seek out more and more necklaces, bracelets, and other adornments that are bold, statement-making, and solely her own. Ditto for seeking out jewelers to customize one of-a-kind pieces, with colored precious and semi-precious stones in heavy rotation.
In the last year or so, on these pages, we’ve highlighted the advent of brands such as Puerta del Sol, Belmacz, and Lara Bohinc among others who are exciting the market with unusual pieces of eye candy. But most importantly they’re designing jewelry to make the wearer stand out from the crowd. Think of how different this mindset is from the desire to have the same triband Cartier ring as everyone else in your circle, or the name necklace popularized by the Carrie character on Sex and the City, or the same chandelier earrings.
Note also the renewed appeal of Kenneth Jay Lane’s over-the-top adornments that once only decorated the necks of Upper East Side and Beverly Hills matrons — now downtown trendies are going to extreme lengths to find the designer’s glass necklaces and costume pieces.
One brand coming out of Austria with a foothold in London and Tokyo is Florian Ladstätter. Working outside of the mainframe of fashion, Ladstätter’s visually arresting sensibility toes the line between art and jewelry — we think he’ll have a far reaching impact (albeit in modified form). His big chains and even bigger pendants, inspired by his recent trips to St. Petersburg and to Tokyo, bear resemblance to gold-laden hip-hoppers of the mid ’80s: big on bravado and destined to stand out.
Note the boho accessorizing at Proenza Schouler‘s refined spring showing, and the general shanghaing of the New York collections by jewelers including Chris Aire, DVF by H. Stern, Fred Leighton, and Tiffany. Jewelry is the rock of self-expression.
Photos: Proenza Schouler spring 2005