Designers unanimously determined that suits and serious dress were the directions to take for a/w ’04. From Gucci to Rykiel Homme, they focused on the put togetherness of sharp tailoring and styling and left the accessorizing to sturdy leather bags. Bringing new dimensions to suits that hug the body, this week in Milan several collections benefited by the injection of a statement making hat. Hats were worked over in new proportions and arresting colors to take some of the focus away from the body and give suits a needed lift.

At Jil Sander’s sober presentation of navy blue peacoats and gray suits, a lone blue fisherman-type hat cut a swath across the collection; it might as well had been rendered in hot pink. Sharp, fitted, and unassuming, it suggested an instant classic. Costume National meanwhile proposed a newly shaped military hat with a full bodied semi-floppy top and a slightly diagonal cap — fearless and painfully chic.

Bottega Veneta’s showroom presentation was all suited boys in an array of tangy fall colors all topped with bowler hats in contrasting colors. No ordinary bowler, this version was relieved of some of its depth and sat on the head like a stylishly engineered exclamation point in burnt orange, teal, and Mediterranean blues.

Vivienne Westwood’s Amish-inspired hats punched up her calgary cardigans and royally tailored suits. Nicole Farhi double-breasted jackets with fur scarves were worn with a pom-pom tam floppily on the head for a modern and desirable look.

Hat lovers D Squared’s super-mature presentation showed several yummy cover-ups that looked smart and natural especially with a skinny tie ensemble shown at the beginning of the show. And, as if to illustrate just how essential the well-topped look is for a/w ’05/’06, Dolce and Gabbana’s usual driving caps were shown on topless models in ripped jeans.

Gucci would have done well to pick up on this trend, the shiny suits and fabulously tailored tuxs they showed on pasty teenagers would have been more edgy with a hat atop.


-Michael Cohen