Judy Blame‘s line of out-there neckpieces, along with a smattering of London designers who are creating one off pieces, foreshadowed the impending shift: now the first stateside signs of this darker jewelry mood come from just-launched Fenton by Dana Lorenz. Lorenz’s intent was to deliberately fill a void in the current jewelry landscape. "Things were too bohemian, too baubly, and coming off a serious brooch season, that was not me. For my line, I wanted nothing that sparkled; I wanted jewelry that was a bit more secret, beautiful, spiritual, and mystical," she says.
Gunmetal chains (also available in silver, and in yellow and white gold) with raven plumes, skulls and crossbows, and otherworldly motifs combine to create eerily precious lapel pins. Triple-strand lariats are weighted with egg-shaped brushed onyx mini charms. And cording typically used for curtain tie-backs is braided with satin ribbons with dangling chains, cast charm dragons, snakes, and a mother of a pearl disc that serves as nucleus to pieces that cascade down the chest. This dangling motif is key to the Fenton feeling. Lorenz comments that she wanted "longer, leaner jewelry; pieces that flow with the clothes, grazing a lapel or the edges of a slim jacket," appearing and disappearing depending on movement.
We got a peek at Fenton earlier this year through a collaboration with Alexander Plokov of Cloak. Lorenz designed a cossack belt, pendant necklaces, vest chains, lapel pins, chains with feathers, daggers and eagles embellished in tarnish brass, oxidized metals, and heavy linked chains to jazz up the It label’s militaristic Russian-themed fall collection. And now, in a single season, her signature line has been picked up by Barneys New York and Ikram in Chicago, and there’s an upcoming Vogue profile. Remember: you heard it here first.
Photos: Fenton Jewelry