Hot design duo David Andersson and Martin Lasson of David & Martin, like Kajsa Oberg and Ida Forss of Dada’s Diamonds (all graduates of Konstfack University of Art, Crafts and Design), are part of a new guard of Swedish jewelry designers getting noticed.

After just two-and-a-half years, the David & Martin line is enjoying a cult following in Sweden, which has led to two major collaborations and some press clippings. When Margaret van den Bosch, the design director of H & M became an avid fan, it was only a matter of time before the Lagerfeld design team — in the throes of their collaboration with H & M — quickly became fascinated with the duo’s sleek jewelry pieces in gold and acrylic.

With the winter collection currently in stores, David & Martin are now in their second season designing jewelry for Lagerfeld Gallery. Back in Stockholm, Acne Jeans — yet another highly hyped Swedish brand — came upon articles about David & Martin’s jewelry; the curiosity led to a collaborative effort, with the first “bone” collection expected for spring/summer 2006.

What is it about David & Martin that has the fashion world taking notice? In addition to jewelry design, the pair creates darkly spirited(and credibility-building) furniture. For jewelry, this same dark spirit runs beyond the use of “black pearls.” A short list of the label’s most popular pieces includes a pair of earrings that spells out 666, a silver bird’s-foot necklace, a crawling mouse ashtray, and a white wool rug splattered with faux blood stains. Dark? Yes, but with a sharp sense of humor that both creators share.

Less seasoned but quite promising is Dada’s Diamonds. The just-launched line that plans to produce one annual collection based on a “well-known historical or literary subject” is already garnering buzz in Stockholm. Their first collection, Wonderland, took inspiration from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland adventures, looking to the original drawings by John Tenniel to create whimsical, dainty trinkets. Jack-and-spade cufflinks, lock-and-key necklaces, and frog-and-bow earrings made of oxide silver and gold are some of the cutesy offerings in this debut collection.
-James Whitely

Photos: 1-3 David & Martin

4-6 Dada’s Diamonds