French designers’ contribution to the shoe archive has been a storied one: Charles Jourdan, Maud Frizon, Roger Vivier, and Robert Clergerie are all considered footwear legends. Let us introduce you to a new guard of designers worth keeping an eye on.

Michel Vivien

After 14 seasons of success and with his own boutique just opened in the chic Palais Royal neighborhood, Michel Vivien has entered the ranks of the established. He is the man behind the well-received s/s 2006 shoe collection for Lanvin, and is credited with some of the most successful collections while designing under Michel Perry between 1990 and 1995. Having further proven himself at Christain Dior by John Galliano at Givenchy under McQueen and for the final couture collections for Yves Saint Laurent, Vivien now dedicates himself to his own elegant, cutting-edge collections, identified by strips of woven leather “caging” the foot upon soaring heels. Vivien’s ¾-length boot is a favorite for the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, who ordered them in every color last season.

Guillaume Hinfray
With s/s 2006, their sixth collection under the name Guillaume Hinfray, the designers Marco Censi and Guillaume Hinfray are commanding considerable attention in fashion circles. Leading in with a fine pedigree of consultations for the likes of Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, and L’Autre Chose, the pair never tire of creating covetable footwear of unexpected beauty with revolutionary techniques — which is saying something in an industry full of been-there-done that-so-let’s-do-it-again. Customizing their leather is just one of the ways that Guillaume Hinfray shoes make their mark. The use of buckles, studs, embroidery, ribbons, velvet, and distressed leather give the feeling of one-of-a-kind couture shoes. Look out for the launch of their men’s collection in stores for s/s 2006 under the name Marco Censi. Guillaume Hinfray is for sale at L’Éclaireur and Via Busstop New York.

Anne Valérie Hash
L’Éclaireur, Dover Street Market, Browns, Harvey Nichols, and Liberty — the list of points of sale are impressive, and riding this wave of success with her ready-to-wear, Anne Valérie Hash launches her first line of shoes in s/s 2006. Fans of AV Hash will not be disappointed; the criss-crossing of masculine-feminine, blending of tailoring, and lace can be found in the house’s distressed leather, satin, and suede. The colors remain those of her ready-to-wear collections: black, beige, and dusty rose. The one element that may surprise is a sprinkling of Swarovski crystals on the graphic bow that grips the ankle on a 110mm black satin pump.

Paule Ka
The brand Paule Ka has been coming to the forefront by leaps and bounds, partly due to some strong advertising photography and partly due to the sheer desirability of its accessory collection. The design team clearly knows what women want, and also how to take a trend one step further to create pieces they want to keep and wear to death. Though the clothes are classic feminine, the shoes are vertiginous, graphic, and sleek — all the while flattering the foot and leg. For s/s 2006, the softest, buttery-gold leather contrasts sharply with starker, black-and-white, patent leather high heels. Available at Paule Ka stores.

-Karina Jeffrey

Photos:
1-2 Guillaume Hinfray s/s ’06
3-4 Michel Vivien s/s ’06
5-6 Anne Valérie Hash s/s ’06
7-8 Paule Ka s/s ’06