The wabi-sabi approach to shoes (washed leathers, rugged stitching, and excellent craftsmanship) shows no signs of disappearing. Brands including Martell, Bruno Bordese, and Chausser tweak their offerings each season, with fresh and desirable results. Another dominant trend for s/s ’06 is a new fascination with Marine hues and using canvas for shoes (and bags).

There were examples on the runways (the accessories at Hermès and Fendi come to mind) but was a not-to-miss trend at Première Classe. The creative hotbed showed designers of varying persuasions unanimously proposing Marine colors prevalent in southern Italy, a region of many manufacturing facilities. Collection Privée married the distressed look with the punchy burnt orange, reds, and blues that decorate port towns from Naples to Positano.

Milan-based newcomer Max Kibardin hit the right stride with his self-described “painterly hues”: emerald and blue cyclamen-toned patent leather on a gray backdrop for understatedly sexy shoes. Über-creative Maloles showed the definitive green/blue color trend as stripes on flat espadrilles and as other decorative details that are sure to keep the spotlight on this white-hot line. Amterasu — in addition to using seaside blues, swimming-pool turquoise, and burnt orange across a selection of girly leather pumps — showed their surefire-hit ballet sandals in the trendy marine palette. Robert Clergerie‘s collection of sensible heels run the gamut from the standard two inches to asymmetrical wedges. Several groupings featured the must-have shades of red, yellow, and green-hued, rough hewn leather that makes these colors pop. Walk that Walk showed stiletto sandals in sea blue, yellow, and red that burst with satin ribbons and men’s shirting details. Leflesh remains one of the most cutting-edge labels, always starting trends instead of following them. A Cuban theme inspired metallic sandals in blue/green puffy leather with copper accents and aquamarine-colored suede bags set their style direction for spring. The trend even extends to the grown-up pumps seen at Nicholas Kirkwood. His greenish-blue patent stilettos with stingray trimmings and stacked heel should touch down big in London, the base of the label’s distribution.

On the runway, sand and flesh colors mark an important mood in clothing for spring and the neutral trend applies to shoes, too.
Canvas, mainly of the raw, organic variety was spotted everywhere:
Laurence Dacade’s classic open-toe canvas stiletto with ash-pink topstitching; Duccio del Duca‘s canvas and leather Kelly-esque bags; and Carmen Ho‘s golden, glazed-canvas high heels all hit the mark. Meanwhile, A.F. Vandevorst showed a knee-high boot with a stark white canvas body, arguably the most provocative proposition of the bunch.

Attribute this organic movement to the inspiration of last season’s espadrilles, or maybe it’s simply a placeholder palette until fall. Whatever the impetus, we suggest getting a head start on the trend for resort wear.
-Jason Campbell

Photos:
Hermès s/s ’06
Amaterasu s/s ’06

3-4 Maloles s/s ’06
Max Kibardin s/s ’06
Leflesh s/s ’06
Carmen Ho s/s ’06
Fendi s/s ’06