We’ve been on the case of deep bags for men for over a year. Perennial trendsetter Marko Matysik has been sporting an exquisite oblong version specially made for him by Simon Heah (formerly of Vent) and the look just seems right. In the women’s arena the trend is already taking hold (see Bottega Veneta and Gucci s/s ’06 collections) and if we’re to go by the a/w ’06 European menswear shows, bags are casting an even deeper spell on men’s accessories.

For s/s ’06, the deep appeal was already evident in the sweet, tartly-colored oblong sacks seen at Burberry; in chain printed, leather-trimmed duffels at Louis Vuitton; in a marigold tote at Givenchy, in an exaggerated medicine bag at Gucci; and in Jas M.B.‘s rectangular zipper-adorned version (sold at Atelier New York). Recently, the fathomless bags swept through the a/w ’06-’07 menswear collections.

In Milan, Christopher Bailey‘s modern British lads lugged a classic
Burberry plaid tote and a shopping bag-shaped version in a glossy black
finish with slim leather handles. Italian glamour houses championed the look, with Bottega Veneta‘s brown duffel in a chenille-like material and a tote in braided leather, Giorgio Armani‘s crocodile skin version, and Valentino‘s polished leather weekender handbags. The color black appeared at Jasper Conran in a rectangular calfskin bag, while at D&G it was evident in an elongated, distressed army surplus rucksack with a rope handle. The intensity of high-voltage red added glamour to some collections including Alexander McQueen‘s, where a bowling bag was fitted with piping, Valentino’s logoed duffel, and a cavernous leather weekender at Salvatore Ferragamo. Wooden handles and reinforced leather seams gave the mighty envelope bag an ethnic artisanal quality at Roberto Cavalli, but camp came to mind at Missoni. The brand’s multihued patterns not only encased their sizable Birkin-esque bag, but also matched the model’s sweater. Miuccia Prada continued her fascination with crests and quixotic dangling charms in an interpretation of sturdy carry-on luggage at Prada. And over at Miu Miu, a densely haired obese bag channeled Cousin It from The Addams Family. Off the catwalk in Florence, Pauric Sweeney‘s eel and snake skin deep bags were both exotic and luxe.

Propositions relied heavily on patterns and prints in Paris. John Galliano used the evocative looms of antique tapestries in a rotund, deep-set purse, which shared tonalities with the painterly hues printed on a long and slender Issey Miyake tote. Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton juxtaposed a red Incan miter pattern with leather trim and handles in a suitcase. Paul Smith also felt the ethnic beat in his rendition of a large overnighter. Though not printed, Dries Van Noten‘s carpenter’s tool bag still captured the spirit while Ute Ploier’s unstructured satchel in gray pajama plaid gave a familiar sense of comfort amidst a sea of ostentatiousness.

In New York, John Bartlett opened his show with a log carrier, which foreshadowed a parade of Ghurka (a/w ’06-’07 marks Bartlett’s first season as creative director) overnighters, and duffels. John Varvatos‘ fresh take on classic American sportswear was punctuated with colossal duffels, gym bags, and rectangular satchels while Rachel Comey‘s deep bag intention was evident in a series of exaggerated coin purses, hiply rendered in jacquard.

What’s all this about? It seems the new larger proportions in men’s clothing are provoking similar play in accessories.
-Robert Cordero

Photos:
Miu Miu a/w ’06-’07
D&G a/w ’06-’07
Valentino a/w ’06-’07
John Galliano a/w ’06-’07
Louis Vuitton a/w ’06-’07
Burberry Prorsum a/w ’06-’07
Missoni a/w ’06-’07