Paule Ka: Global and Growing

Paule Ka is a Paris-based retail chain that's quietly building a serious global profile by interpreting cutting-edge designer trends with a twist. Founded by designer Serge Cajfinger over 20 years ago, the brand is rapidly gaining momentum, and sales have tripled since 2000.

Paul Ka operates 32 shops worldwide, including 8 in France, 2 in England and 17 co-op stores in Japan, where it's wildly popular. During the past few seasons, Americans have caught on as well, and women traveling abroad have been scooping up the label's lofty platform shoes, eschewing similar heels from better-known labels and relishing that the brand isn't sold stateside. Paule Ka also presented one of the more memorable a/w '08 collections we saw in Paris.

In its freshly minted St Honoré flagship store, the label shows chic multilayered separates that capture the mood of the season's new shapes with darting, pleating and folding details. Must-have shrunken jackets complement sleek pencil shirts, and coats mix panels of clear plastic and camel cashmere over cream-colored tube dresses. Other soft touches turn up in animal-print silk blouses and on-trend drop-crotch slacks. Meanwhile, Paule Ka's eye-catching footwear is shown in a mix of materials, including velvet and elastic-strapped pumps paired with thick, knee-high wool socks—one of the season's big flourishes.

Though the label does reference Prada and Marni—much to the delight of arty women, who can mix and match the brands for effortless results—Paule Ka has fashioned a unique identity all its own, and one that still has major growth potential. Now, if the label would just tackle the small matter of an American outpost...

—Jason Campbell