Androgynous Mind: Patrick Stephan

It might not be far-fetched to say that designer Patrick Stephan struggles with a certain duality disorder: his collections unabashedly explore the intersection of masculinity and femininity, strength and softness, and the designer does it all from his base in Tokyo, a stark contrast to his homeland of France.

Stephan moved to Tokyo in 2000 to begin his namesake line after stints embroidering corsets for Mr. Pearl and designing for both John Galliano and Christian Dior. In addition to being drawn to the city for its creativity and surrounding natural beauty, Stephan was also attracted to the concentration of local artisans who shared his passion for modern clothing with a hand-made touch.

For his a/w '08 collection, Stephan has fashioned his most striking designs yet, unleashing a style mash-up with an uncompromisingly androgynous edge. Low-gauge knit sweaters fit daintily at the waist but have large oversized shoulders, and maxi skirts boast tiers of edgy techno-treated pleats. Stephan is also known for his eclectic accessories, and this time around he's concocted necklaces and belts made of burned metal, unisex bags made out of buttery-soft leather and "military" boots that look like they were drawn directly from a suit of armor.

If Stephan's distinctive vision is a disorder of the creative soul, we're crossing our fingers that it doesn't get cured before we see what else he's got up his made-in-Japan sleeve.

—Misha Janette