London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane Keeps It Coming

You've got to give it to Christopher Kane for his assured confidence. The collection he showed yesterday didn't veer from his Planet of the Apes theme in nearly all 36 of the scallop edged, other-worldly and elegant looks he sent down the catwalk.

Kane's first exit was a yellow leather skirt with 3D vertical lines (paired with an animal printed sweater), which set the dramatic yet strangely dreamy tone of the collection. More scalloped edging followed in both 3D shapes and flat renderings, most winning in the sheer and delicate dresses. A few translucent layering jackets picked up where he left off last season with a series of circular paillettes on chiffon dresses. The presentation was stunningly executed but one buyer whined: "Thirty scallop edged looks, couldn't we have seen twenty scallops and ten lobsters?”—a cute soundbite, but we felt the collection was sublime. While there were no lobsters, Kane did cheekily show two looks with images of roaring apes printed on the front of dresses. With this showing, he certainly moved his fashion stakes up a notch.

—Jason Campbell