London Fashion Week: Erdem's Printed Prettiness And Lace

London has pegged its next wave of talents: Christopher Kane, Louise Goldin and Giles Deacon. Based on the collection we witnessed yesterday (as well as last season and the season before), we can also say that Erdem Moralioglu has a solid place in the lineup—his exquisite talents even catapult him to the top of the list.

Moralioglu has honed an intensely romantic leitmotif over the seasons, bringing more variety to the expression for spring. He loves a tiered epic length dress—the pale blue Edwardian opening French lace version was a standout—while other ethereal examples included Jouy de Voile prints on full skirts and hydrangean embroidery edging the shoulder and hem of dresses. But this is not to say the collection wasn't without sex appeal. A couple floral printed tight dresses—one in particular with a frilly bodice—would do wonders for elevating the look of those Hollywood starlets. Tinged with colored pearls, stones and rose jewels from Belmacz, it was a smartly edited, near perfect collection.

—Jason Campbell