Siki Im Challenges The Status Quo

Most can agree that fashion and French philosopher Michel Foucault are an unlikely pairing. But for Siki Im, a former Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang designer, it's this unexpected overlap that sets his directional, high-end menswear apart from the rest of the scene in New York. Just as Foucault questioned homosexuality, urbanism and media with radical texts, this former architect challenges conventional notions of men's fashion with meticulous tailoring, architectural details and inventive silhouettes.

Though this may seem rather complex in process, the pieces in Im's eponymous debut s/s '10 collection are deceptively simple when on the body. As with post-structuralist philosophy, the clothes are more than meets the eye—one can appreciate the polished look of handcrafted, tailored jackets made from luxe Italian and French 130's wool, but the real drama lies inside. Placing equal importance on the jacket's interior, Im uses transparent silk organza as lining, allowing wearers to see loose threads that fuse the seams together. No buttons are outwardly visible, but that’s because they are all hidden and are made from horn.

There are also subtleties that the untrained eye wouldn't necessarily catch upon initial inspection. A long wool vest's armholes curve roughly half an inch deeper in the back to reveal more skin. A gorgeous black organza trenchcoat has kimono sleeves that create a slouchy drape over the shoulders. And inside some pieces there are straps that can be anchored onto their shoulders to convert into a cool looking cape.

While these clever techniques can be attributed to Im’s background in architecture—he was educated at Oxford and practiced at Architectonic—his play on sartorial proportions is a reaction to the taut silhouettes favored by male urbanites. Apart from the numerous skirts in the collection, he also featured voluminous trousers that taper at the hem, slouchy t-shirts with scoop necks and cotton sateen shirts with high armholes and cut to tunic length.

It takes a unique kind of designer to break down the philosophical and aesthetic traditions of menswear design, but Im has done just that—and will no doubt continue to do so for years to come.

—Robert Cordero