Nude Accents

Tucked away in London's West End lies Shepherd Market, a pocket of the capital reminiscent of Dickensian times, full of picture-book cafes, pubs, and boutiques. Previously renowned as a red-light district, it might not seem an ideal location for most jewelers, but for Central Saint Martins graduate Nicki Galloway, not only did it feel perfect, but its history helped to determine the name of her two-year-old shop — "short and sweet, Nude nods to the area's past without being obvious," Galloway explains.

Galloway's shop was born of necessity: she ran a successful stall in Piccadilly selling her own designs until "one day it started snowing, and I realized I needed four walls and a ceiling." Nude Contemporary Jewellery carries almost 60 lines from a variety of small designers based in Poland, America, Italy, France, and Great Britain. The diversity of Galloway's own collection (from silver crucifixes to crocheted, enameled necklaces) is reflected in the varied choice of designers carried in the store. Customers' tastes have changed for the best, she believes. "Minimalism and simplicity used to be key, but now people are buying bigger and bolder jewelry, which forces me to be more broad-minded, and to look at different mediums. So we carry leather, crystal, acrylic, wood, semiprecious stones, horn, wood, and, of course, gold and silver jewelry."

But despite experimental attempts, wearability prevails. So wearable, in fact, is Galloway's selection that at first glance the shop could easily pass for any small jewelry outpost carrying standard trinkets and silver pieces like those found all over Great Britain. But on closer examination, Galloway's keen eye becomes evident.

Some of the desirable pieces include Loekie Heintzberger's chunky, granulated-gold ring with diamonds scattered on the surface (£2,000); Phil Park's classic cocktail rings in gold and semiprecious stones; and Rie Tanabe's small, solid roses cast in yellow and rose gold for rings and earrings. Further down the price scale are Castaway's wooden bracelets and necklaces made from slices of dyed horn, and Modi Paigani's lightweight, cotton-resin cuffs (from £50). A macabre theme runs throughout: Shaun Leane's subversive pieces depicting thorns, Tfi Patah's calligraphic silver spikes inspired by tattoo shapes, Annika Burman's silver hoops with barbed-wire knot details, and Vicki Amberley-Smith's kooky earrings in the shape of tiny buildings cast in silver round out this thorny grouping. Even more affordable are the mixed crystal rings by Caireen H. (from £35) and Emjay's suede laces, dotted with pearls (£35).

Stripped down, Nude lives up to its claim as a one-stop destination for contemporary jewelry.
-Mary Fellowes, Fashion Assistant, British Vogue

Photos: Nude Contemporary store
Loekie Heintzberger ring
Phil Park rings
4-5 Vicki Amberley-Smith