Paris Fashion Week: Gareth Pugh Does Paris

Gareth Pugh's outré antics were missing from the London runways this season, but he still managed to thrill the throngs of fans who converged in Paris to witness his special brand of theatrics.

Pugh went more Edwardian court than Mad Max, keeping to his usual black and (more) white palette as he trotted out an assortment of labor-intensive pieces. The collection included bodycon dresses—one stunning version showed pleats scaling up the front, only to butterfly at the sleeves—worn with circus leggings, which is a look that's right on trend. Meanwhile, the jackets with armorial breastplates and raised shoulders were stunning, and arguably the most protective suggestion thus far witnessed this season. The real breakthrough, however, appeared in the new, approachable fluid pieces, although there weren't many. Ladies prone to statement-making attire visibly coveted a hooded trench that danced with pleating from top to bottom—ditto to a fluttery chiffon opera-esque coat that practically floated down the catwalk.

While Pugh remains steadfastly out there, his influence in the trend toward approachable, architectural femininity has roots in his severe renderings over the last few seasons.

—Jason Campbell