Gozi

Mention the name Gozi in London or Paris and you're met with uncertain corroboration: "Sure, yeah, I've heard about that designer." Try to dig deeper and not much else can be extracted about the label except that it's buzzing somewhere in the fashion sphere. Some confuse Gozi with another ace London designer (Noki), but only a few know the Nigerian-born Ngozi Ochonogor and her line from the Portobello Market days when she was the go-to gal for stylists and Japanese clients. The latest update on the former software engineer is that her fall/winter '04 Bisous, Josephine collection (her second presentation) was very well received in Paris. Josephine Baker's eroticism (and trademark '30s hairstyle) was all over the collection, along with light bondage references (crisscross strapping and leather garter belts) to an effect more trompe l'oeil than tramp, falling somewhere between elegant sophistication and modern cool. Slinky silver and jewel-toned jersey tops, and Deco detailing using witty insets, ruching, and layering all emphasize a drop-waist silhouette in a collection of just 18 looks. Now you know Gozi.
-James Whitely

Photo: Gozi fall/winter 04