With his new line Hexa, Korean designer Jung Kuho has reinterpreted visual harmony and spiritual balance for the fashion world. A graduate of Parsons the New School of Design and currently Samsung’s creative director, Kuho balances avant-garde and modernistic aesthetics with textural dimensions for a line that is at times beautifully reminiscent of origami.
Embodying the feline masculinity of gender-bending fabric and tailoring, Hexa’s a/w ’11 show features Eastern influences and Kuho’s background in theatrical costume design as he confidently channels the androgynous theme of male-clad womenswear chic. “When you look at Western religion, the clothing is all straight lines; in Asian, it’s draping,” he explains of the collection’s distinctive silhouettes. Kuho’s refashioned Kawakubo-inspired pieces also hit a high note in cloth wrap dresses, tops and skirts. Tiered pieces were mantled in marvelous fabrics that seemed to swallow models’ waif-like figures while creating an enviably constructed, seamlessly complicated and cohesive mess. The combination of neutrals and colors in an assorted palette of layers and unending fabric appeared almost unwearably magical—a true testament to the art of throwing things together.
The a/w ‘11 show featured models coyly creeping along the catwalk as spotlight after spotlight introduced the next garment. The effect was one of instantaneous metamorphosis as the models emerged like a series of military dolls and exited after pealing their outer shells to reveal Kuho’s masterful talent for folding, tucking and draping. Gowns were lean and colorful thanks to material that elongated the body at its hem, making for small steps rather than strides. Likewise, Kuho’s pants featured crotches draped to the ankles with a puddle of material that swaddled between the legs. Artfully crafted origami silhouettes spoke of Kuho’s sure hand as a distracting orchestra of violins played in the background and well-mannered models remained composed and conscious of their assigned roles. Kuho’s overall collection proved that blending in can be uniquely appealing in a fashion dynasty.