With inescapable icy winds and frigid temperatures blistering the beginning of New York Fashion Week, a good knit was crucial for combating the unfavorable weather conditions. On the runways, designers also explored this essential and functional fall wardrobe choice with plenty of inventive interpretations to choose from.
Alexander Wang had a particularly wondrous selection of oversize sweaters that came huge with cuts on the side and worn over silk dresses. His technical talent was best seen in varieties that were padded on the arms as well as two sweater dresses that gradually morphed into silk at the hem. At N. Hoolywood, Daisuke Obana was inspired by photos of Yosemite National Park, sending out mountaineer-manicured models replete with facial sunburns and climbing tools such as lariats. To sartorially communicate this thematic conceit, Obana showed Aran jumpers alongside copious heavy knit vintage-looking vests worn over shirts as well as tucked in.
The designers at Altuzarra, meanwhile, paraded two sweaters with an elaborate pattern that included triangular skin peek-a-boo, one of which was worn with an olive skirt bearing thigh high slits. If this was emblematic of a raffish collection, then Ohne Titel’s outing was filled with futuristic appeal. Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, the designers behind the label, were inspired by the space suit and offered a bevy of pieces that easily will be the most covetable of the season. They came ribbed in a zippered up number that created subtle undulations, geometrically paneled in a dress, while skirts were loosely knitted to create a swingy effect.
Marcia Patmos, formerly of the now defunct Lutz and Patmos, launched her eponymous M. Patmos label this season. She didn’t stray too far from the covetable practicality of the Marcia Patmos label, which produced chunky shawl collar cardigans, box cut sweaters with singular lapels and a variety of sweater dresses. TSE also understands this functional aspect of knitwear, and their minimal approach yielded a series of versatile cable knits that can be worn over pants, skirts or a blouse and fitted pencil skirt combo. By contrast, Jeremy Scott’s decidedly zanier take on the trend produced a pink sweater with a skeleton outline woven into it, a blue and orange striped dress with a cut-out that revealed the stomach and an alpaca sweater worn with a purple kilt.