Given the sheer number of shows, presentations and parties to potentially scope at NYFW, it’s no wonder minds start racing (and feet begin hurting) at the mere thought of doing as much as humanly possible. Bearing this in mind, we’ve whittled down our to-do list for the week, featuring the new, the noteworthy and the tried-and-true faves. Whether you’re hoofing it around the city this season, or simply doing so vicariously from the comfort of home, here’s what to look out for.
DESIGNERS TO WATCH:
Autumn/winter ’11 marks the second New York outing for Central Saint Martins grad Graeme Armour, who launched his namesake line in 2009 following a three-year stint at Alexander McQueen. A master of concealing as much as he reveals, Armour traffics in an artisanal design approach that involves punching up already edgy silhouettes with fringe, cutout and crochet detail. A master of balancing simplicity with excess, Armour is establishing style sensibilities for a new era of fashion.
A NYFW newbie, Canadian-born designer Clayton Evans founded Complexgeometries in 2008 bearing in mind the need for chic-yet-simple staples with an eye on androgynous versatility. By leaving each garment open to interpretation (pieces lack a front or back) Evans eschews trendiness or stricture in favor of allowing the wearer full creative freedom. This didactic and openly interpretive approach will appeal to a generation that thrives on artist/audience interactivity and aesthetic flexibility.
A bonafide multi-hyphenate, model-turned-DJ, musician and designer Mandy Coon enrolled at FIT and apprenticed for Camilla Staerk before launching her debut collection for spring/summer ’10. A proponent of texture and asymmetry (as well as, rather unmistakeably, the color black), Coon creates goth-tinged confections that skew in equal parts toward an ethereal dark goddess aesthetic and a quirky romantic style. Her contrasting patterns and distinctive silhouettes are daring, yet perfectly accessible to stylish aesthetes.
FASHION’S NIGHT OUT:
Expect an artsy turnout (literally) for the US debut of a Balenciaga-clad Cindy Sherman’s series of six over-the-top self-portraits, originally featured in French Vogue. Nicolas Ghesquière will host at the brand’s Meatpacking flagship, where chanteuse (and star of Balenciaga’s autumn/winter ’10 campaign) Karen Elson will play a musical set.
Hanging out with all of these people under one roof would ordinarily necessitate either a CFDA party invite or a trip to the Met Ball: Not so at Barneys, where the Proenza Schouler boys will join Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in judging a karaoke competition, while Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright will be on hand for ping-pong doubles. Daphne Guinness will also be in attendance for the olfactory-inclined, previewing her new Comme des Garçons fragrance collaboration.
Dolce & Gabbana:
Naomi Campbell will be at the duo’s Madison Avenue boutique to personally autograph a series of 14 t-shirts commemorating her 25 years in fashion. Featuring images by the likes of Paolo Roversi, Herb Ritts, Ellen von Unwerth and Steven Klein, the $200, limited-edition tees aren’t official FNO merch, but all proceeds benefit Campbell’s charity, Fashion for Relief.
9/10: Multi-tasker Tim Hamilton celebrates, in no particular order: his new Lacoste collaboration, a new video from photographer Collier Schorr and his latest Redux collection with performance artist Kalup Linzy.
Fashion’s Night Out
9/11: Alexander Wang’s epic after-parties are slated to continue apace, with this season promising the transformation of a West Side Manhattan lot into a loud, model-strewn dance floor-cum-playground.
Seven New York celebrates the launch of both its new, aptly named house label, SYN, and jewelry collaboration with designer Chris Habana at the Soho Grand Club Room.
9/12: Tom Ford hosts an intimate cocktail party—presumably previewing his forthcoming women’s collection for a (very) lucky few ahead of schedule.
9/13: Brooklyn-based, biannual arts pub The Journal throws its first fashion week party, co-hosted by Fall contributors David Blaine and Juergen Teller.
9/14: Priestess NYC designer Cody Ross and painter Marianne Aulie launch their latest viscerally driven fashion arts installation at Galleri Sand.
9/15: Newly re-vamped former Misshapes haunt Don Hill’s starts earning its fashion stripes this season, hosting (among many others) Proenza Schouler’s after-party.