In the second half of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, designers accentuated wintry frocks and autumnal coats in prints laded with flowerbeds. It seems that a/w ‘12 may be evoking a different time of year altogether. The collections also displayed another dominant trend toward embellishments. Designers approached femininity with decorative details, delivering rich and luxurious looks for next season.
Botanical inspirations made there way onto silks, embellished patterns and woolly fabrics. Calla delivered pale daisy suits and dresses in between large wood grains and granite flecks; Chris Benz went for sequined wild prairie patches; and Richard Chai Love presented masculine jackets in exotic fuchsia varietals. Roses were also a popular choice. Tory Burch added texture with organza rosebud decals; Suno’s Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis mixed peachy-pink roses with black and white stripes; and Naeem Khan featured pixel black and white rosebuds and gold dusted rose patterns on evening wear. Elsewhere, NAHM and Rag & Bone shared a taste for vintage styles of florets on vines, whereas Tadashi Shoji created digital floral motifs from a Chinese painting.
Many garments also received a Midas touch with Swarovski crystals and ostrich feathers added in for extra sparkle. Prabal Gurung’s “Uncursed” collection delivered exquisite evening dresses, including a white-haltered dress with soft white plumes tucked in between white chiffon and blue Perspex petals. Embellishments varied from acute to modest overall. Nicholas Kunz’s Tao-Western inspired collection presented flapper-esque dresses eclipsed in silver and gold round sequins with sequined hems and fringes, whereas newcomers Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia kept things simple with a high-waist black plumed pencil skirt. Although beadwork and eveningwear is to be expected, designers exhibited creative applications that fit the trend. Mark Badgley and James Mischka worked metallic beading into woven fabrics, while Vera Wang balanced diamond-crusted skirts with printed silk dresses and wool coats.