Ode To Grandma In A Bottle

Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Müksch, the duo behind perfume label Humiecki & Graef, recently launched a line of five new fragrances. These original scents—Askew, Geste, Skarb, Multiple Rouge and Eau Radieuse—marry high concept art with inventive scents, deconstructing the classic conceptual approach to luxury perfumery and reassembling it in a remarkable, contemporary way.

The individual fragrance concepts are inspired by atypical, emotionally evocative motifs such as madness, melancholy, desire, folly, love, fury and even the essence of how men cry. The visceral evocation of these perfumes also pays homage to the duo’s grandmothers, Helena Humiecki and Katharina Graef, who each played such an important and influential role in their grandsons’ lives that the label is dedicated to their respective memories.

Christophe Laudamiel, one of the most renowned “noses” in the business, helped Fischenich and Müksch turn their dream into reality. To translate the pair’s concepts into desirable perfumes, Laudamiel departed from convention. Veering away from the rigid head, heart and base note categories that compose the pyramid structure of most perfumes, Laudamiel developed the scent in a star-shape, which tends to reflect deep emotions and enhance individual ingredients. With an ingredients list that included such oddities as green banana, soft leather, rhubarb juice, immortelle absolute, Guatemalan cardamom and soft fir resin, it’s no surprise that a traditional approach would not suffice.

Of the resulting scents, Skarb is probably the most conventional, but still has an incomparable aura. Geste, on the other hand, is the most over-the-top, while Eau Radieuse is playful, Multiple Rouge ideal for exhibitionists and Askew radiates an urbanite masculinity. These perfumes do more than just smell good, they encapsulate a whole life’s story. This type of emotional perfumery has yet to be mainstream, but may soon become a phenomenon worth taking seriously.

For more information, see www.humieckiandgraef.com.

—Candice Rafferty

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