Eclectic Icelandic-German duo Ostwald Helgason is back — and on a printmaking rampage. Even so, they manage to round out their S/S ’09 collection’s stark edges with their signature intricate, body-conscious tailoring. Continuing the label’s inspiration from ballet, this collection draws on the Ballets Russes’ Les Noces (The Wedding), based on traditional Russian wedding poems. They also cite the raucuous wedding ceremony in Emir Kusturica’s film Black Cat White Cat as muse. So, added to their black and white palette are wedding-cake pastels combined with the red, white and blue of traditional Russian folk garments. Stripes and geometric patchwork graphics get set against classic checks and pinstripes, making for the label’s boldest prints yet. Oversized jackets with dropped shoulders turn tight and cropped, and oversized shirts shrink into strictly tailored garments. The rigid lines of men’s tailored jackets are softened into feminine round shoulders, drapes, pleats and gatherings of multifaceted finesse. Here, all shapes are game.
— Camille Drummond