Paris Fashion Week culminated in a range of stunning new trends amid a crescendo of announcements and celebrations. For autumn/winter ‘12, French designers made bold feminine statements by presenting curvaceous silhouettes and sexy shapes. The runways were peppered with minimized waistlines and bustling derrières, all of which were enhanced by pristine construction and tailoring.
In the absence of Galliano, Bill Gaytten’s collection for Christian Dior was filled with petite, belted, houndstooth jackets that gave a prominent flair at the hip for a more rounded silhouette. At Giambattista Valli, a belted, heavy knit black-and-white jumper with a thick hem gave off the effect of a peplum skirt, while sheer graphic panels combined with thick furry pleats enhanced curves elsewhere. Similarly, Guillaume Henry added a bit of structured piping to skirts and dresses for Carven, and Julien David’s sporty collection featured bustling wool skirts that exaggerated hips with equal measure.
Drawing further attention to voluptuous lines, the peplum skirt was popularly featured in several shows. After a celebratory bash marking Alber Elbaz’s 10th year at Lanvin, the show introduced a parade of jewel tone body-con frocks with ruffled collars and peplum skirts. Riccardo Tisci’s menacing aesthetic was intact at Givenchy, where he presented another dark collection inspired by both French photographer Guy Bourdin and equestrianism. Amid the sharply tailored riding jackets, Tisci featured black leather pleated skirts with blood red peplum appliqués and Jodhpur pants with flared hips and thighs.
By contrast, Roland Mouret presented a softer collection with cream and pale yellow A-line skirts as well as dresses with matching overskirts. Elsewhere, Nicola Formachetti’s mesmerizing collection for Thierry Mugler showcased creative interpretations of the peplum: delicate strands of silk fringe embraced folding asymmetric ruffles on body-hugging pristine white skirts.