Beauty Guru: Men’s Beauty

May 22nd, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

As the cosmetics and skincare industries thrive, the demand for effective men’s grooming products has been on the rise, resulting in a wide range of male-specific and male-friendly product formulations. Men are now spending $3.5 billion annually on plastic surgery procedures and recent studies show that 83% of men are attracted to male-specific packaging. And while new products emerge in the extremely competitive cosmetics arena, many existing brands have become far more conscious of male-specific needs as well as the diverse range of masculine preferences. In this issue of Beauty Guru, we turn our focus to the best and most effective products for men that are sure to please all types of tastes. From shaving needs to skincare, suncare products and more, being a well-groomed man has never been more enjoyable or convenient.

Alchimie Forever
alchimieAlchimie Forever has recently redesigned the packaging for its highly effective men’s skincare products. The products are formulated to address male-specific concerns such as shaving irritation and ingrown hairs as well as anti-aging. We are particularly impressed with the Tightening Eye Contour Gel. Eliminating breakable jars for travel convenience, the products have also been packaged in easy to use squeeze tubes. With the brand’s highest standards of quality and efficacy, Alchimie Forever Men receives our highest ratings. For more information about these and other Alchimie Forever products, log onto the website.

Dirty by Lush
dirty-by-lushExperiential beauty pioneer Lush has now created the Dirty range. This rather straightforward collection of, shall we say, male-centric products was designed as a simple, minimal regime for anyone with an extremely active lifestyle. Each product has its own refreshing and invigorating notes which layer beautifully together. Lush’s Dirty series receives our highest ratings for practicality and experience. Log onto the website for more information.

Evolution Man
evolution-manOne of the newest brands on our radar here at Beauty Guru is Evolution Man. With a highly male-specific philosophy, Evolution Man has tapped into the truly contemporary male aesthetic of beauty. Not only does the brand feature make-up in the form of Conceal (a tinted cream that blends effortlessly to a seamless, undetectable finish), Evolution Man has also recently introduced a delightful yet masculine series of Nail Paints. While maintaining an eco-green brand philosophy and utilizing cutting edge technology with scientifically proven ingredients, Evolution Man receives our top marks for innovation and brand image. For more information about Evolution Man’s selection of products, log onto the website.

J. Paul
J.-PaulTruly the most masculine of the product lines we are featuring, J. Paul simplifies the processes of male grooming. Primarily focused on shaving, each of the products are multi-functional and, as previously mentioned, masculine in every sense of the word. Simple, effective and extremely practical, J. Paul receives our top ratings. For more information about J. Paul products as well as great tips on how to use them, log onto the brand website.

Kyoku
kyokuAlready mentioned in previous posts, Kyoku is one of the most effective and extensive ranges of grooming products formulated to address the specific needs of men’s skin. The brand continues to evolve and offer new and exciting products such as the new Wind body series, which is part of the brand’s collection of atmospheric scented body products. We love so many products on the range overall, but top favorites include the Pore Reducing Serum and the Facial Moisturizer with SPF 15. To learn more about Kyoku, go to the brand’s website.

Skin Authority Man
skin-authoritySkin Authority is also new on our radar, but is growing quickly. The company produces a complete and rather extensive collection of skincare products. Combining the best of nature and science, the brand recently introduced Skin Authority Man, a daily regimen of anti-aging products that address the unique and often challenging needs of men. The line includes some of the most effective products we have come across and is ideal for active men. Skin Authority Man receives our highest ratings for innovation and efficacy, and we particularly love the Age Defying Hydrating Sunscreen with SPF 30. Check out the brand website for more products and information.

Valery Demure To Launch E-Shop

May 17th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

valery-demure2Valery Demure, the 360-degree agency and go-to showroom for the latest in accessories and jewelry, is now moving into the realm of e-commerce. The Valery Demure e-shop will offer an eclectic range of accessories, modern and vintage jewelry and special one-offs for both men and women. The French figurehead aims to create a retail haven for shoppers with an uncanny taste for fashion. And with a reputation cemented in launching cutting-edge designers, Valery Demure is easily destined to become the next leader in fashion-forward retailing.

The e-shop will offer handbags, belts, millinery, sunglasses, scarves and jewelry from an eclectic mix of international designers, some of which are currently represented by the agency. Painter-turned-jewelry designer Alyssa Norton, for instance, gained notoriety after collaborating with Narcisco Rodriguez and is known for combining indigenous techniques with vintage stones. Her vintage diamante and braided silk bracelet features multi-colored braided silk thread with matching tassels and a woven white diamante fringe. Like Norton, Maryam Keyhani was also a painter before transitioning into jewelry. The self-taught designer creates bold statement pieces that combine dense metal chains with delicate feather and leather accents.Meanwhile, Israeli designer Smadar-Pola Azriel of Paula Bianco designs unique accessories as well as jewelry. Her delicate gauze and lace foulards are an LA favorite and her chunky cuffs and necklaces combine traditional techniques with a personalized playful aesthetic. All of these designers will be offering exclusive pieces through the new e-commerce store.

valery-demureDemure’s distinguished social circle has already pledged support for the new platform. Her mix of shop owners, gallery owners, DJs, and chefs will model looks in a street style motif. “They are people we meet for work and pleasure, and they work in different fields,” Demure says, “they inspire us, they are not models, they are not wannabes, they are interesting and they are who they are and we love/like them for who they are.”

Guest designers will also make their debut each season with fresh collections. Carefully selected, the guests are “real people who surround us—friends, collaborators—they have a talent.” To start, we can anticipate pieces from the avant-garde Heaven Tanudiredja, conceptual design team Ek Thongprasert and the self-taught porcelain artist Patrick Moulin. The Valery Demure E-shop launches in September and will be available internationally.

Millinery: Love Hats

May 9th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Louise MariettHats off to My-wardrobe.com’s co-founder Andrew Curran whose latest project is to take millinery global. Lovehats.com is the first of its kind, an e-shop dedicated to high fashion millinery and housing established names—from Royals’ favorite Philip Treacy to rising starlet J Smith Esquire. The online boutique strives “to get everyone wearing hats” and features updated millinery news and original editorial content via its Headlines magazine. The anticipated success of Lovehats.com not only lies in its innovative virtual “try on” app, but in the eclectic mix of designers it will introduce into the market. Here’s our shortlist of favorite designers discovered on Lovehats.com.

Louis Mariette
Louise Mariette was a party and wedding planner, before transitioning into millinery in 2002. His first collection, presented in Milan, received high praise. It also captured the attention of Harrods, which later commissioned the ‘Chapeau d’Amour’, a £1.5 million hat made of platinum and diamonds for the posh department store’s revamped millinery department. The Malawi-born designer has since collaborated with Manish Arora, Qasimi and Nichole de Carle, and has a strong celebrity following that includes Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Erin O’Connor, to name a few. Mariette’s fantastical headpieces defy heights with elegance and glamour, and draw inspiration from his travels as a child between Africa and London.

Marie Mercie
Marie MercieLike Mariette, Marie Mercie’s collections are based on her childhood, growing up in the forests of Fontainebleau, France. The former artist and writer is also a veteran of the industry. Mercie’s success lies in the novelty of her playful designs, which are rooted in nature. Since opening her Parisian boutique, she has received fashion kudos for her blithe creations. Mercie revels in all things whimsical—from leopard print kitty ears to a hedgehog cap fitted with felt nose, eyes and lashes—which suits her most sophisticated fans, including Milla Jovovich and Kristin Scott Thomas.

Emma Yeo
Emma YeoAward-winning designer Emma Yeo discovered an interest in millinery midway through an MA Design Jewellery course at Central Saint Martins. With training in multimedia textiles, she made the leap into headwear upon graduation. The young designer is transforming traditional millinery with fresh techniques such as her innovative Lasercut woods, a frenzy of intertwining molded lines covered in rich velvets and metallic. Her recent collaboration with London based designer Corrie Nielsen, titled “Solitary Motion,” explores new combinations, morphed leather and blacked dyed pheasant feathers with signature dynamic silhouettes.

Bernstock Speirs
British label Bernstock Speirs, designed by Paul Bernstock and Thelma Speirs, was born out of the ‘80s underground club and music scene in England. Inspired by youthful rebellion, the duo designed men’s and women’s hats that defied conservative norms. Since then, they’ve maintained a fashion-forward spirit through collaborations with Peter Jensen and Richard Nicoll as well as a shop in trendy Shoreditch. Their recent collection features amusing styles like their signature Bunny Cap, a cotton baseball cap with canvas bunny ears and bow, and trilby hat made of twisted paper straw with contrasting brims.

Beauty Guru: Creating the Perfect Canvas

April 30th, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

Although beauty trends can influence personal style, the most important aspect of beauty remains the complexion. From the ubiquitous minimalist monochromatic bare face with its emphasis on a sheer, dewy complexion to vibrant lip color paired with a polished, demi-matte skin texture, foundation is an essential beauty product. We even suggest having a wardrobe of foundations to suit every style or mood. In this issue of Beauty Guru, we focus on creating the perfect beauty canvas with our top selections of the best foundations and complexion enhancers. From the sheerest tinted moisturizers to full coverage foundation, the following suggestions are sure to please.

Beauty Blender
Creating the perfect canvas begins with the perfect tool. The Beautyblender is by far the best selection for fashioning a flawless complexion, regardless of your choice for foundation. Used damp, the unique, egg-shaped design (patent-pending) imparts a hydrated, foolproof and long-wearing application, while the dense material won’t absorb make-up the way that ordinary cosmetic sponges do. An indispensable wonder, the amazing Beautyblender receives our highest ratings for design, innovation and overall function. For more information about Beautyblender and other Blender products, including the new Beautyblender Pure, log onto the website.

Chanel Vitalumière Aqua Compact
In the luxury brand category, Chanel continues to deliver superior formulations. And the brand’s latest release, Vitalumière Aqua Compact, is truly outstanding. Combining the luminescent properties of a liquid foundation with the ease and overall convenience of a compact, this ultra-light, water-based formula blends effortlessly to a sheer, flawless finish while providing comfortable all-day wear as well as SPF 15. It’s an ideal formula for warmer temperatures. For more information about Vitalumière Aqua Compact or any of Chanel’s other incredible products, log onto the website.

Erno Laszlo
Erno Laszlo absolute finishJaqueline Kennedy-Onassis and the Duchess of York were among the Erno Laszlo devotees that helped elevate the brand to commercial status in the early 1960’s. Today, Laszlo’s presence in the industry is indeed iconic. Our top foundation selections are the Absolute Finish SPF 15 Air-whipped mousse foundation as well as the regular Normalizer Shake-it, an amazing all-in-one product that minimizes excess shine while providing a sheer coverage. For other products and information, log onto the brand website.

Hourglass
Hourglass Cosmetics produces some of the most impressive, highly effective foundation and skin enhancing formulations. Hourglass was established in 2004 and utilizes cutting-edge formulations with the finest ingredients. Since launching, the brand has successfully cultivated a savvy following that includes top industry professionals among legions of in-the-know devotees. The top performing products include the Veil Mineral Primer, a superb primer and absolute must-have item for anyone’s make-up bag, as well as the Immaculate Liquid Powder Foundation and our top favorite, the Illusion Tinted Moisturizer. For more information about Hourglass and its full range of amazing products, check out the brand website.

Jane Iredale
Jane Iredale Mineral CosmeticsIf minerals are your choice of foundation, then no other brand is as superior as Jane Iredale. The brand offers the best mineral formulation and selection of shades available, none of which have the unpleasant ashy-grey pallor that most mineral products can impart. Ideal for sun exposure, great for the body and virtually weightless on the skin, Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics receive our highest ratings. Check out the website for more information.

Kevyn Aucoin
If flawless, longwearing, full-coverage is what you want, look no further than Kevyn Aucoin. The brand’s namesake master created incredible formulas for a signature flawless finish that remains evident throughout the range. From the incredible Sensual Skin Enhancer concealer, which provides maximum coverage, to the amazing Liquid Airbrush foundation, The Sculpting Powder and The Celestial Veil Candlelight Powder, the legend of one of the industry’s top innovators lives on. For more information, log onto the website.

Koh Gen Do
Newest on our radar screen is Koh Gen Do. Originally developed in Japan, the brand employs a ritualistic skincare approach to beauty and has developed some of the most nurturing cosmetics available on the market. The formulations are each superb and ideal for anyone with sensitive skin. Our favorites include the Moisture Foundation, Aqua Foundation and Maifanshi Face Powder. For more information about the full range of products from Koh Gen Do, log onto the website.

Make Up Forever
Make Up ForeverAnother favorite artistry label at Beauty Guru is Make Up Forever. Although the brand offers a fairly extensive range of incredible foundation formulas, our all-time favorite product is the Face and Body foundation. The ultra-light gel texture melts into the skin, can be used to even out legs, décolletage, etc and is therefore the ideal formula for outdoor photographs, etc. Also worth checking out are the HD Primer, HD Concealer and HD Foundation and our favorite for highlighting, Uplight Luminizer Gel. For more products and information, log onto the website.

Nars Tinted Moisturizer
Truly one of our most featured brands at Beauty Guru is Nars Cosmetics. The most recent addition to the brand’s already stellar roster of foundation formulas is the Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer. Perfect for the bare minimalist, this amazing formula provides a sheer veil of coverage as well as protection from the damaging rays of the sun. Weightless with soothing skin-enhancing ingredients, this product is certainly a multi-tasker that delivers optimal results and receives our highest ratings. Log onto the website for more information.

Zuzunaga Studio

April 13th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

ZuzunagaCristian Zuzunaga has an eye for pixels. The Barcelona-born designer/artist is recognized for his prismatic graphic interiors and fashion accessories. Trained as a type designer, Zuzunaga creates captivating imagery from digital geometric shapes then transfers them onto textile fabrics for cushions, couches and scarves.

Zuzunaga manifests urban living into every collection, drawing inspiration from modern architecture and culture. His recent curtain collaboration with Danish textile company Kvadrat was a testament to this creativity and vision. The unique collection featured overlapping shapes in prints and weaves that revealed skylines and cityscapes at a distance.

ZuzunagaMore recently, Zuzunaga expanded his scarves collection to include snoods and shoes. Inspired by the concept of transformation, the Alchemy collection boasts rich textiles derived from photographs of urban landscapes. For the Bitmap series, Zuzunaga compressed prints into arrays of square bits which were then transformed into pale pink and royal blue knit snoods, black-and-white espadrilles and 100% Modal scarves with self fringed hems. The complementing Pixel series features landscape images broken down to reveal hundreds of hidden colourful pixels, resulting in the chromatic square patterns on the Giant Flow scarf made of 100% silk chiffon.

Zuzunaga’s infectious ethos and love for intense hues is a recipe for design success. We look forward to forthcoming collections and collaborations from the London and Barcelona-based designer.

Beauty Guru: The Experience of Fragrance

April 6th, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

The fragrance industry is thriving. Every year it churns out a multitude of products from designer labels, celebrity and lifestyle brands and traditional perfume houses. Although the art of perfumery dates back centuries, a signature fragrance has now become one of the most important vehicles for creating and maintaining an overall brand image. And because scent is linked to memories, the reaction to fragrance and purchasing one is a highly emotional experience. In this issue of Beauty Guru, we focus on the overall experience of fragrance—from the literary world to highly conceptual designer perfume to the more traditional forms.

Chandler Burr – The Perfect Scent
Although there have been many books written about perfumery, none have exposed what really occurs behind the scenes of the multi-billion dollar industry. New York Times writer Chandler Burr reveals the incredible process of creating and ultimately marketing a fragrance from beginning to end. The book provides in-depth profiles of prestige luxury-goods producers, Hermes’ first official head-perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena and uber-celebrity Sarah Jessica Parker’s journey to the launch and development of “Lovely” with top fragrance manufacturer Coty. The Perfect Scent is a truly fascinating read and receives our highest ratings.

Creed
creedWe’ve written about Creed in previous posts for its standards of excellence and quality. Established in 1760, it is France’s most renowned perfume dynasty and continues to use techniques created by the family’s founding perfumer James Henry Creed. Royalty and famous celebrities throughout the world have favored the brand’s signature scents for centuries. Each perfume is covetable in its own way, casting a distinct allure of refinement, sophistication and timeless elegance. Having produced some of the most legendary fragrances ever known, the brand continues to thrive today under the direction of the family’s sixth generation perfumer, Olivier Henry Creed. For more information about Creed or to find the nearest retailer or location for one of the brand’s amazing flagship boutiques, log onto the website.

Illuminum
illuminiumAlong with her custom-made Alexander McQueen wedding gown and royal crown jewels, Catherine Duchess of Cambridge chose Illuminum’s White Gardenia Petals as her wedding day perfume. The once little known brand instantly became known internationally and his since attracted a major following. The brand offers a unique, contemporary and rather experiential approach to fragrance, with a variety of beautiful scents, including Perfume and Haute Perfume series that can be layered or worn alone as well as scented candles and a very clever room “aromarizer.” Illuminum receives our highest ratings for innovation and design.

Taken by Jane Booke
Los Angeles-based designer Jane Booke was exposed to a world of travel and culture from an early age and developed a true passion for art and fantasy. Her passion has led to Booke’s most recent endeavor, a perfume called Taken. This captivating, sensual fragrance has soft, fruity top notes of mango, peach and bergamot but is grounded with deep vanilla notes. Available in spray or roll-on as well as a fragranced candle, Taken is one of our favorite new scents! Log onto the website for more information.

Wode by Boudicca
Recognized for exquisite tailoring, expert craftsmanship and highly conceptual art/fashion installations, London-based fashion label Boudicca has also created Wode, one of the most sensory-stimulating perfumes. Unconventionally packaged in a spray paint can, Wode comes out as a vibrant cobalt blue mist that appears wherever the scent has been sprayed. The color gradually disappears, but it leaves behind a delightfully intoxicating scent of herbal and spicy notes. Boudicca’s Wode is both a sensual and a visual experience, and it receives our highest ratings for design and innovation. For more information or to view the amazing video for Wode, log onto the website.

S/S ‘12 Trends: Shopping Guide

March 29th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Margiela s/s '12Spring has finally begun. With the clocks rolled forward and temperatures signalling warmer days, spring/summer ’12 collections are making their debut online and in stores. We’ve highlighted this season’s macro-trends—paisley, roaring ‘20s, metals—and have laid our favorite must-haves for the spring season.

With origins rooted in Persian and Indian cultures, paisley exudes both classic and cultural appeal. And from JW Anderson to Stella McCartney, it’s one of s/s ‘12’s most desired prints. Accessories like Haider Ackermann’s Clash Belt in gold and magenta silk paisley and Jil Sander’s white poplin pouch, featuring neon-pink, green and navy droplet swirls, are easy to wear nods to the trend. For something bolder, opt for A.P.C.’s belted cotton dress in red and earthy undertones or Etro’s corked platform wedge, which aced this season’s trend with its blue suede paisley pattern appliqué.

Etro paisley wedge s/s '12Inspired by Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming Great Gatsby re-make, some designers were also moved by designs from the roaring ‘20s. The Art Deco movement featured prominently in s/s ’12, as seen in Lulu Frost’s gold drop earrings with inverted triangular silver-plated brass crusted with diamante as well as Etro’s pleated crepe skirt in a modern eye-popping Art Deco print. Swept up in period glamour, labels also produced creative and opulent accessories like Christian Louboutin’s ‘Artemis’ shoulder bag with extravagant gold textured-leather strap and blood velvet lining as well as Charlotte Olympia’s handmade black satin and clear plastic ‘Origami’ pumps with dainty ankle straps.

Christian Louboutin s/s '12And while fringe and sequins are popular, this season’s metallic trend offers a more tempered approach to glamour with silver and gold accents. Illesteva’s unisex Beca sunglasses in gold are a great starting point, while Nicholas Kirkwood’s Lace Derby shoes made of blue suede overlaid with gold lace are the perfect balance of metal and lace. To fully capture the trend, go for Margiela’s lace-up high tops in metal gold leather or Christopher Kane’s pleated silk jacquard mini skirt from his acclaimed runway collection.

Designer Spotlight: Merle O’Grady

March 23rd, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Merle O’GradyMerle O’Grady knows a thing or two about making a fashion statement. Known for creating striking jewelry collections, her statement pieces seamlessly transform the simplest of outfits into high-fashion looks. It’s no wonder that style icons such as Florence Welch, Rihanna and Beyonce are loyal fans.

Born in Ireland and based in London, O’Grady fuses mechanical shapes with Swarovski crystals, a combination that has proven successful since her s/s ‘10 debut. Originally a trained fashion designer, O’Grady’s naturally creative eye made her migration into accessories an organic transition. She even counts an architectural salvage yard as the catalyst for launching her own jewelry range.

Initially, O’Grady created designs heavily based in Perspex, geometric shapes with honeycomb perforations in black, white and transparent. Since then, she’s evolved into working more with metals and Swarovski crystal, as seen in her more recent s/s ‘12 collection, titled “Mecanismo.” Influenced by Mesoamerican designs, particularly Aztecan “Taxco” styles, O’Grady’s Talon collection fastens claw shaped pendants onto wide cuffs and dense chains. Each pendant is hollowed out and replenished with rounded turquoise or pale pink crystal. Other collections feature more bold pieces, such as her Templo necklace made in light oxidized brass. A rather grand crescent moon pendant, fastened with triangular studded brass and blue Swarovski crystals, hangs like a showpiece off a woven brass chain.

Merle O’GradyO’Grady’s collections are also recognized for incorporating industrial elements into designs, a recurring theme throughout each season—for s/s ’12, it’s “Machine Age” Deco. But O’Grady is quick to add: “I wanted to follow on with the tribal style too.” Inspired by streamline buildings and cars, the pieces beautifully integrate raw components with luxury fixtures. The Shell Stud range blends mechanical-like washers into Mexican necklaces, while the Streamline collection has a more architectural feel. Favorites include the Delahaye range with silver and gold brass hinges topped with princess cut jewels.

O’Grady’s dedication and unique style have led to praise and growing popularity within the UK. This month, the Merle O’Grady collections will also be available in the US at Urban Outfitters.

Beauty Guru: Autumn/Winter ‘12

March 15th, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

LanvinBeauty took a strong new direction at the autumn/winter ‘12 international ready-to-wear collections. Bold, graphic statements eclipsed or enhanced the ever-present minimalist trend that has reigned supreme over the past several seasons. Virtually every reinterpretation of retro-inspired make-up looked fresh on the runway—from polished ‘90s grunge to the continuous evolution of the cat-eye to the most important trend, matte lips—while the multitude of hairstyles ranged from very tame to slightly tousled. Beauty is the most important and accessible statement for a/w ‘12.

The ever-present minimalist beauty look was punctuated in many cases by a graphic eye, bold lip color or strong brows (from full and completely unsculpted to boyish and geometric shapes). Our favorite examples of the season were Pat McGrath’s graphic cat-eye and bare face at Lanvin and Peter Philip’s bejeweled eyebrow strips with soft facial contouring at Chanel. As previously mentioned, matte lips were the major statement acorss many collections, of which our top selections include Rick Owens, YSL and Gregory Parkinson’s deep plum lips in New York (designed by yours truly).

Hairstylists also took a far more diverse approach than in previous seasons. Texture varied from very dry to very wet, while styles ranged from wearable, classics to a refreshing multitude of updated, youthful looks. From center or side partings in somewhat slept-in looks to more sleek versions, often accented with vibrant or contrasting color, hair became an added statement of youthful experimentation. Wet looking or slicked back styles were a significant trend as well. Standout looks of the season were Rodney Cutler’s textured curls at Gregory Parkinson in New York and Guido Palau’s severe center parting with contrasting dark or colored roots at Jean Paul Gaultier as well as his youthful, severely side parted textured hair with side-swept bangs for Celine.

Pringle Cardigan

March 8th, 2012 by JC Report