Trendsetter: Kyle Anderson

January 26th, 2012 by Robert Cordero

Kyle Anderson was born in Sweden and grew up in a suburb near Chicago. He has worked for the past six and a half years as the Senior Accessories Editor at ELLE magazine and joined Marie Claire as accessories director in November.

What’s hot right now?
Givenchy, Andrej Pejic, Sexy, Ginger Beer, Wet Hair, rock ‘n roll surfers, Korean food, Berlin, Diamond Rolexes, pointy toe pumps, leather, extreme high-low mix of fashion, Bryanboy, Marie Claire, Nina Garcia, Vogue Paris, Ricardo Tisci, Harley Davidson, Boucheron, Balmain glamour, Dark cowboy.

Who are your favorite accessories designers?
For bags, I love Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, VBH and Chanel. For costume jewelry, I love Lanvin, Mawi, Tom Binns and Alexis Bittar. For shoes, I love Giuseppe Zanotti, Casadei, Givenchy and Jimmy Choo. For belts, Azzedine Alaia and YSL. For fine jewelry, I’m obsessed with Degrisogono, Piaget, Bulgari, Chopard and Elsa Peretti jewelry from Tiffany’s. For watches, I like Cartier, Bulgari, Rolex, Versace and Piaget.

In your estimation, what will be the biggest accessories trends in 2012?
For jewelry, it’s all about fine jewelry right now. Even the runways haven’t had big costume jewelry for a few seasons. And it’s all gold, diamonds, colored stones. 2012 so far has not been full of the sculptural silvers of last year—it’s all about statement fine pieces like Degriosgono or sexy gold from Bulgari. For bags, its all about the lady bag. Inspired this season by the shape of the classic Kelly bag, designers have turned to structured top handle ladybags in a variety of pastel tones and white. For shoes, the pointy toe pump is very strong in many pastels again. For clothes, there is a big return to ladylike for the most part (pastels, ’50s), but there are many other trends for those not a fan of the Mad Men look. Whatever the trends, I’m a big fan of black, rock ‘n roll and sexy styles.

Paris Mens Fashion Week: Leather, Updated Suits and Military Influence

January 26th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

YSLThe designers at Paris Menswear a/w ’12 fashion week put their unique stamp on the dominating trends already seen in Milan. From leather accents to outlandish reinterpretations of classic styles, the Paris collections were unabashed and at their best.

Statement leather and leather details were seen everywhere. YSL featured the material in lapels, turtlenecks and even shoulders, which were patched in soft black leather. Dark skin treated sleeves melted into Alexander McQueen’s zip-up wool bomber jacket, while Acne featured malleable leather shirts and Phillip Lim chose dense and heavy leather for his hip-length vest and jumper. Unexpected texture made its way in via quilting techniques in Christian Dior’s olive brown parka and Balmain’s skinny leather trousers with quilted knee patches, which were paired with strong blue pea-coats.

Thom BrowneDesigners also delivered exceptional interpretations of the gentleman’s suit, which went beyond classic ideals. Sarah Burton’s double-breasted three-piece suit in crisp white pinstripes was a success, as was the shorts suit presented at Raf Simons. Jean Paul Gaultier took a deconstruction approach, layering jacket vests over cummerbunds, collars and lapels. Influenced by Marine suits, Thierry Mugler’s Nicola Formachetti focused on tailoring and construction by minimizing (or removing) details such as pockets and lapels. Military nuances were also seen at Hermes, where sophisticated charcoal suits resembled uniforms and were accompanied by belted coats in leather and exotic skins.

As always, Paris also upheld its reputation for breaking and making trends. Thom Browne’s sinister collection of punks versus jocks introduced exaggerated quarterback shoulders, devilish spiked masks and schnauzer prints. Lanvin’s eye-catching jailhouse looks featured high-waist trousers, puffed jumpers and wide navy Lanvinstripes cut across orange coats, blazers and pleated pants. Yohji Yamamoto’s real life models donned pauper ensembles (layers of oversized red silk, wide wool suits and padded overcoats with blanket scarves). Rei Kawakuba presented an androgynous libertarian collection for Comme des Garçons that was filled with tailored coats in polka-dot and floral prints. Henrik Vibsgov’s affluent hippy collection included mature deep v-neck cardigans in printed knits and slouching trousers with tapered ankles and zip decals. And Junya Wantanabe’s a/w ’12 collection, entitled “Work,” was by far the most relaxed with country inspired flannel shirts and colorful suspenders holding up heavy dark denim.

Milan Mens Fashion Week: Dapper Vintage, Animal Inspiration and Unexpected Colors

January 26th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

PradaThe Milan Menswear Fashion Week a/w ’12 collections delivered refreshing new trends and a variety of masculine themes. Incarnations of nostalgic fashion as well as heterogeneous interpretations of the modern gentleman dominated the overall look and feel of the presentation.

Prada’s dapper designs managed to overshadow the presentations—thanks in added part to the slew of celebrities featured both off and on the catwalk. Actors Jamie Bell, Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman modeled ‘30s-style long coats with wide fur lapels and double-breasted cummerbunds with brooch accents. The combination of these iconic male figures and designs lent a timeless glamour and masculinity to the overall collection.

At Burberry Prosum, Christopher Baily’s collection had all the excitement of a British period drama—right down to the accessories. Tweed caps and striped umbrellas with silver dogs head handles accented the quintessentially anglo collection, which featured updates on the corduroy suit as well as polka-dot shirts and ties, cropped quilted jackets and cow-neck knit jumpers. Jil Sander was also inspired by animals, albeit of the more outlandish variety. Amid the professional suits and black leather, Sander’s collection included dinosaurs and whales on a few knits.

Burberry ProsumNothing short of opulent, Giorgio Armani’s collection was lavished with velvet jackets, lush snoods and theatrical hats reminiscent of the Italian Renaissance. Similar in its approach to luxury, Dolce & Gabbana’s catwalk collection featured a series of wool suits adorned with thick capes and silk bowties, then slowly progressed into ensembles fit for royalty (silk pajamas made in the signature D&G print, dinner jackets embroidered with gold details).

Designers upstaged this season’s fine fabrics with new textiles and prints. Etro featured layered feathered jumpers with Native American printed blazers, while Missoni showed similar designs that merged the classic Missoni pattern with ethnic weaves. Missoni also included brown and red plaid trousers for a/w ’12, which was a trend also seen in DSquared2’s blue plaid scarves and button-down shirts. Denim also proved to be a popular textile, as seen at DSquared2 and, most strikingly, in a denim jacket at Valentino.

Jonathan SaundersMaking his menswear debut, Jonathan Saunders set out to distinguish himself from the fierce competition by using a fall/winter palette eclipsed by pastels and intricate pale prints on stunning two-piece suits. His collection was a mix of tailored pieces in baby blue, soft red and yellow knitwear as well as the occasional plum red or navy separate. At Moschino, Bill Shapiro showed equal enthusiasm for color with his orange brick print three-piece look, while Marc Jacobs opted for bright lime and yellow in a skater-inspired jacket with matching trousers and Trussardi designed retro houndstooth suits and suede blazers in rich blues and orange.

BFC Announces London Collections: Men

January 24th, 2012 by Chelsea Bauch

Menswear has finally emerged from the shadow of its feminine counterpart in recent years. From trendsetting menswear talents around the globe to jewelry that’s designed with a male-oriented bent, the fashion world has wizened to men’s increasingly refined fashion sensibilities. The latest milestone in this industry maturation is the announcement of London Collections: Men, a new menswear showcase that will be put on by the British Fashion Council in June.

Expanding upon the current popularity and stature of London Fashion Week’s one-day menswear showcase, the BFC is launching this new platform as a balance to its better established womenswear half. As described in a release from the BFC, London Collections: Men will “emphasize both the creative and commercial importance of Britain’s brands and emerging talent as well as the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the inspiration and success of this sector.”

Helmed by GQ editor Dylan Jones, the event’s prestigious committee—including Christopher Bailey, David Walker-Smith and Tom Ford—will feature a range of designers who represent the diversity of British menswear talent. And with dates set to coincide with London Olympic fever, Jones makes a strong case for why this is the right time and place: “Whether you’re involved in sport, fashion, media, retail, entertainment or tech, or indeed any industry, London is the place to be in 2012.”

Daily News: A Global Roundup

January 20th, 2012 by JC Report
“Asian designers, whether home based or in the fashion diaspora, are making an impact in the opening days of the Paris men’s 2012 season.” (New York Times)
“The British Fashion Council (BFC) yesterday announced the formation of a Fashion 2012 Menswear committee, designed to raise the profile of UK designers and increase sales.” (The Independent)
“Brian Atwood is amping up his eponymous line with the addition of handbags for spring ‘12.” (WWD)
“After losing Giles Deacon in December and new CEO Jeffry Aronsson just last month, Emanuel Ungaro appears to be on one shaky last leg.” (New York Magazine)

Daily News: A Global Roundup

January 19th, 2012 by JC Report

“This afternoon in Paris, British menswear designer of the year Kim Jones presented his second collection for Louis Vuitton. He talks exclusively to the Guardian about his inspirations and moodboard.” (The Guardian)

“GQ is not the only media operation to embrace a more overt commercial role. More and more publications have been trying to establish ecommerce operations in an effort to extend their brands beyond the printed page, and find new sources of revenue in a tough advertising market.” (FT)

“The US was shut out of today’s launch of the Versace for H&M cruise collection–it was only available online and H&M doesn’t have e-commerce here yet–but that doesn’t mean we’re not interested in how it all played out (or that we can’t shop it on eBay). And as has become the norm with these fast-fashion collaborations, there was drama.” (Fashionista)

“Swatch Group’s decision to lower watch part supplies to rival watchmakers this year has already impacted the industry, forcing some brands to hold back production and others to scramble for alternatives.” (Reuters)

Beauty Guru: More Anti-Aging

January 19th, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

Following the positive response to our recent coverage of groundbreaking anti-aging formulations, we’ve decided to continue our exploration of this innovative and highly specialized beauty category. Each of the following products deserves to be recognized for effectively utilizing unique formulations, advanced technology and ultimately for delivering optimal results when it comes to healthy skincare and anti-aging improvements.

Elysee Fountain of Youth
Elysee Fountain of Youth wrinkle intervention creamIf the name alone doesn’t convey the message the amazing results will! Elysee was Originally founded in 1923 by Dr. Elizabeth Blumenthal, a highly sought after skincare specialist, Elysee has since come to be regarded as a pioneer in the industry. Having introduced many of the most effective and commonly used ingredients utilized in anti-aging skincare products—including grapeseed extract, Royal Jelly and AHA’s among several others—the brand continues to explore further research and development. Elysee is also visionary in the introduction of several exclusive and proprietary skincare breakthroughs, such as the Wrinkle Intervention Cream, but overall it is a superb anti-aging range. Check out the website for more products and information.

Enpointe Skin Solutions
Enpointe Skin Solutions Age Delay Eye Solution Pirouette Bamboo MicrodermSurviving breast cancer gave celebrated plastic surgeon Dr. Christine Rodgers M.D. a unique perspective on beauty and the common problems that develop as a result of aging, illness, stress, environment and hormones. The line is based on Dr. Rodger’s understanding that effective skincare goes beyond the surface of the skin and should work with its composition and overall function. Free of questionable ingredients such as parabens, sulfates, phthalates and growth factors, and formulated with natural botanicals, active enzymes and an exclusive proprietary complex (Bio-Energy Complex™), Enpointe is a remarkable line of anti-aging products. We are particularly impressed by the Age Delay Eye Solution Pirouette Bamboo Microderm cream. Check out the website for more information.

40 Degrees Younger
40 Degrees Younger Formulated with Q/Stan-D™, 40 Degrees Younger specifically addresses the obvious yet difficult to address signs of aging that affect the hands and neck. Backed by extensive research, this specialized anti-aging system penetrates deep into the skin’s surface to the mitochondria DNA in order to reveal more youthful skin. 40 Degrees Younger receives our highest ratings for innovation and aiding in the fight against anti-aging. Log onto the website for more information.

Muvazi
Muvazi A skincare regimen built around the exclusive ingredient Oat Beta Gluca, which stimulates the immune system and is proven to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, scars and discoloration, Muvazi is based on a simple pledge to renew, restore and deliver results. Utilizing refreshing and invigorating botanical ingredients, these products evoke a beautiful spa-like feeling while delivering optimal results. Muvazi’s simple four-step system of highly effective products is a pleasure to use and an ideal anti-aging daily regimen. Check out the website for more information.

vbeauté
VbeautéThe newest product on our radar is put out by an ideal lifestyle anti-aging brand called vbeauté. Based on a passion for luxurious and highly effective products, vbeaute has turned to the highly respected CRB High Performance Laboratories of Geneva, Switzerland, to create the brand’s exclusive vComplex and Alpine Rose Botanical Technology, which protects and repairs the skin. Consisting of some of the most impressive and aesthetically pleasing anti-aging products we’ve encountered, vbeauté receives our highest marks. Check out the website for product information, including the fabulous It Kit which is ideal for travel.

Designer Profile: Celine Meteil

January 19th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Celine MeteilFrench designer Celine Meteil first impressed Première Vision’s judging panel with her s/s ‘11 collection. Selected from among ten other finalists, Meteil’s series of romantic and progressive ready-to-wear pieces was also her first collection at Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. In addition to her natural eye for appealing forms and flattering silhouettes, Meteil’s talent lies in her ability to create unique garments out of unconventional materials that push the boundaries of RTW fashion.

Meteil’s s/s ‘11 collection, dubbed “Plié Backstage,” was created entirely out of resistant jacondas material. Traditionally used to develop 3-D sample prototypes, Meteil transforms the fabric into ethereal dresses with Celine Meteilgenuine silhouettes. This unexpected combination was striking on the catwalk, as layered white jacondas added depth to exaggerated bow-tie details on delicate sheer tops. Garments were assembled together out of various panels and the solid white seams highlighted the transparency and delicacy of each piece. Meteil also gave the collection an architectural feel through applied permanent creases and designated folds. The finishing result was structured and voluminous shapes, mainly on the skirts and lacey dresses.

Meteil’s successful debut came together with the support of fellow exhibitioners, including Yarns & Jersey and Close to Clothes. She has worked with leading European fashion houses including Givenchy, John Galliano, Nicolas Ghesquière (at Balenciaga) and Felipe Oliveira Baptista.

Trendsetter: Brett Bailey

January 18th, 2012 by Robert Cordero

Brett BaileyBrett Bailey grew up obsessed with Old Hollywood movie musicals such as Cabaret and All That Jazz thanks to his quirky “fruit shoe” wearing grandmother. A California native, he channeled his love of musicals into dancing and performed professionally by the age of fourteen. After appearing in a Britney Spears Vogue shoot that emphasized fashion’s finest labels and movie production-like sets mixed with dance and movement, Bailey was inspired to make the jump into fashion styling. He has since collaborated with major fashion photographers including Ellen Von Unwerth, Hillary Walsh, Nick Haymes, Jeremy Kost and Tesh, and has styled talented musicians, including Nikki Minaj, Casey Spooner, The Phantograms, Sleigh Bells, Uffie and Muse. Bailey has also created customized pieces for icons Lady Gaga and Rihanna. His work has been featured in Dazed & Confused, Mykro, The New Tough, Metal, Spin, GQ, Flaunt and French Playboy.

What’s hot right now?
Liberation! The fascination with current trends has just become irrelevant. It’s 2012, people are sick of being confined to the perameters of reality. Everyone wants to be free—it’s the end of the world after all.

What do you consider “compelling” in subjects?
Characters who commit to their own identity.

Who are your favorite photographers?
Nobuyoshi Araki, Robbert Mapplethorpe and Damon Baker. All three are legends in their own right.

Designer Profile: Lyudmila Lane

January 18th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Lyudmila LaneLyudmila Lane is the newest designer to join WHO’S NEXT’s roster of promising talent. The University of Creative Arts at Rochester alum impressed judges with a refined and accomplished debut collection called “Endless Sequence” that showcased her aptitude for sophisticated silhouettes and fine drapery. Now the fashion world is anticipating her first full collection, which will be displayed in the upcoming autumn/winter ‘12 Prêt-à-Porter trade show in Paris.

Lane’s collection was inspired as much by visual artists as by feminine mood. The energetic display of movement seen in Dutch artist Peter Jansen’s work (particularly his Human Motions exhibition) is manifested in the delicate, hand-sewn pleats that dominate each design. One particular highlight is a bias-cut pant suit that’s gathered at the hip and features gentle pleats diverging downwards into relaxed tapered legs and upwards into a one-sided cape. The work of French painter Suzanne Valadon is also present in Lane’s designs, specifically the artist’s “Ketty’s Etriant” pencil sketch, which the designer interprets through a somber mix of silvers and gradating grays with optimistic orange: a simple sleeveless gray shift dress is enhanced by a pleated front panel of dyed fabric that changes from charcoal to soft orange.

Lyudmila LaneLane describes her collection as an opportunity to express women’s moods, mainly through fluidity and diverse pleating. The collection also boasts elements of embroidery, mainly within the polyester pleats, and exaggerated collars that can be converted into capes. Lane successfully captures this unique combination of strength and sex appeal in her finale piece, a silk chiffon gown with twisting one-shoulder, cut-out details and thin pleating from bust to floor.