Beauty Guru: Dry Skin Care

February 1st, 2012 by Geoffrey Rodriguez

Dry skin plagues most of us during the harsh winter months. Extreme weather conditions combined with the dehydrating indoor environments can wreak havoc on the skin, from head to toe. And while a multitude of products are readily available, it’s crucial to address individual dry-skin needs. In this issue of Beauty Guru, we focus on a variety of the most effective dry skin remedies that will soothe even the most dehydrated and chapped winter skin.

Ahava
Ahava makes of our favorite Dry Oil Body Mist, which instantly gives skin a radiant, hydrated glow. The Israeli brand also offers a full range of skincare for the face and body, all of which are enriched with Ahava’s signature Dead Sea minerals. Our top selections for combating dry skin include Ahava’s Essential Day Moisturizer (available in three formulas, including a very dry skin formula), the Essential Reviving Serum and the highly absorbent Dermud Nourishing Body Cream and Caressing Body Sorbet for extra rejuvenation. Ahava’s Dermud Intensive Hand and Foot Cream also receive our highest marks, and are essential for any time of year. Log on to the website for more information.

Alabu
New on our radar is Alabu. Made from the finest all-natural, unrefined ingredients, the brand’s soaps are made with goat’s milk, an ingredient that has been used for centuries for its soothing and nourishing properties. Alabu also offers a small range of skincare made with other nurturing ingredients, but the Original Body Lotion in particular was formulated for sensitive and dry skin with an exclusive proprietary blend of essential oils and plant extracts that naturally preserve the product for two years. Alabu receives our highest ratings for purity and effectiveness. Check out their website for more great products and information about Alabu.

Dermalogica
Dermalogica is a leader in highly effective skincare products and innovative treatments. The brand’s Ultra-Rich Body Cream is ideal for soothing dry skin regardless of the season, while the Super Rich Repair is a highly concentrated “heavyweight” cream that combats even the driest complexion. Dermalogica’s Dry Skin Kit also contains a full dry skin regimen, including our favorite Multi-Active Toner which is ideal for travel (a major contributing factor to dry skin). For more information about Dermalogica products or to experience a treatment at a flagship location, log onto the brand website.

First Aid Beauty
While the name may suggest essential practicality, First Aid Beauty is a full modern day household remedy product range. Based on pure, basic and highly functional principles while blending the best of science and nature, First Aid Beauty was created to address everyday beauty and skincare needs. The Ultra Repair Cream is one of the most effective dry skin remedies that we have encountered, but the brand also offers other amazing products for dry skin, including the Face Cleanser, Gentle Body Wash and one of our favorite lip balms, the Ultra Repair Lip. For more information about First Aid Beauty, log onto the website.

40 Degrees Younger
Although it was recently spotlighted in our Anti-Aging feature, 40 Degrees Younger once again deserves mentioning for its remarkable and instantly visible results—especially for soothing and nurturing parched hands. The brand uses an exclusive and rare custom formulation of ingredients, Q/StanD™, which are extremely effective at restoring the overall texture of the hands and instantly reveals younger, rejuvenated skin. We cannot speak highly enough about the incredible results that these products deliver, which continue to improve with regular use. 40 Degrees Younger receives our highest ratings for efficacy and innovation. Check out the website for more information about these amazing products.

Peter Thomas Roth Clinical Skin Care
With a family history in the European spa industry and a personal passion for exceptional skincare, Peter Thomas Roth is one of the most effective and specialized product lines. The brand’s Mega Rich™ series includes a rich, vitamin-infused shampoo and conditioner as well as Mega Rich™ Body Lotion, which feels extremely light to the touch but is thoroughly hydrating—a true testament to Roth’s superior standards of efficacy. We also love the Mega Rich™ Body Wash and extremely tactile Moisture Infusion Facial Bars, but the brand deserves further exploration for its issue-specific . Log onto the website for more information.

Yu-Be
Celebrating more than 50 years of healing dry skin, Yu-Be offers some of the most effective dry skin remedies available anywhere. Developed in Japan, these highly effective glycerin-based products are extremely emollient, yet absorb quickly into the skin and have been proven to be thoroughly effective even in the most extreme conditions. We particularly love the brand’s iconic Moisturizing Skin Cream, Foaming Skin Polish and the very clever and practical Heal and Elbow Socks. Check out the website for more product information.

Daily News: A Global Roundup

January 31st, 2012 by JC Report

“The CFDA has caused controversy after deciding to relocate its offices from New York’s beloved Garment District to Bleecker Street – a move designers have described as a snub to the area – a location that the organisation has always tried to protect and promote through initiatives such as Fashion Incubator and the Made In Midtown study.” (Vogue UK)

“For decades, Japan simply imported the wares of foreign cultures, but recession has led to invention. The country has begun creating the finest American denim, French cuisine and Italian espresso in the world. Now is the time to visit.” (WSJ)

“Facebook plans to file the prospectus for its initial public offering on Wednesday, according to people briefed on the matter, finally kicking off one of the most anticipated stock sales of the social networking era.” (New York Times)

“Alberta Ferretti is next up in Macy’s designer series for the store’s Impulse contemporary department.” (WWD)

Hansen’s Nordic Roots

January 31st, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

Hansen s/s '12Independent menswear label HANSEN has developed a cult following for its rich portrayal of Nordic life. Based in Denmark, Swedish designer and artist Aase Helena Hansen contrives rustic collections that embrace three defining fundamentals: Nordic expression, values and traditions. The result is a menswear range that exudes rural characteristics and sound craftsmanship.

HANSEN’s spring/summer ‘12 collection is a narrative of the Hansen family history, drawing inspiration from the farmers of rural Säby in Sweden. The bearded real life models manifest the lifestyle of farmers in indigo shirts, lightweight cotton caps and casual jackets. The designs are practical, yet brimming with unique features—all of which exude strength, honesty and simplicity, the core values behind the HANSEN brand. Hansen has a gift for relaxed suits with mother-of-pearl and metal buttons, blazers with old world patterns and Hansen’s signature trousers.

Hansen s/s '12Since her debut, Hansen has been collaborating with Norwegian weaving mills, Danish embroiderers and fine-linen Danish knitwear to integrate the spirit of Nordic tradition in every one of her garments. The s/s ’12 collection exhibits fine three-piece suits made of heavyweight Swedish-woven cotton and linens in neutral tones. Another standout piece is the molten brown jacket designed from quilted Finnish Elk hide. Her humble designs mixed with luxurious fabrics have proven to be a successful marriage, and we look forward to seeing what HANSEN conceives next in ode to Nordic culture.

January 30th, 2012 by JC Report
“2011 was an extremely busy year for luxury retail expansion in Australia…So what’s behind the flurry of store openings in Australia?” (BoF)
“Users of the Bloomberg Terminal are among the richest demographic in the world, and advertisers will soon be able to reach them via a new luxury lifestyle magazine… Bloomberg Pursuits is a spin-off of Bloomberg Markets, the monthly business magazine that also goes to Terminal users.” (WWD)
“Since he began his career in the early ’70s, Manolo Blahnik has dominated the shoe world. And this season, with the demise of the heavy wedge and the return of the stiletto and mule, every woman worth her salt will be wearing his uniquely crafted designs.” (WSJ)
“The British Fashion Council will spotlight a clutch of young designers from around the world as part of a cultural program to mark the 2012 London Olympics. The inaugural International Fashion Showcase will take place during London Fashion Week, and showcase the work of some 80 emerging designers from such far-flung locales as China, Australia, Uzbekistan and the United States.” (WWD)

Trendsetter: Kyle Anderson

January 26th, 2012 by Robert Cordero

Kyle Anderson was born in Sweden and grew up in a suburb near Chicago. He has worked for the past six and a half years as the Senior Accessories Editor at ELLE magazine and joined Marie Claire as accessories director in November.

What’s hot right now?
Givenchy, Andrej Pejic, Sexy, Ginger Beer, Wet Hair, rock ‘n roll surfers, Korean food, Berlin, Diamond Rolexes, pointy toe pumps, leather, extreme high-low mix of fashion, Bryanboy, Marie Claire, Nina Garcia, Vogue Paris, Ricardo Tisci, Harley Davidson, Boucheron, Balmain glamour, Dark cowboy.

Who are your favorite accessories designers?
For bags, I love Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, VBH and Chanel. For costume jewelry, I love Lanvin, Mawi, Tom Binns and Alexis Bittar. For shoes, I love Giuseppe Zanotti, Casadei, Givenchy and Jimmy Choo. For belts, Azzedine Alaia and YSL. For fine jewelry, I’m obsessed with Degrisogono, Piaget, Bulgari, Chopard and Elsa Peretti jewelry from Tiffany’s. For watches, I like Cartier, Bulgari, Rolex, Versace and Piaget.

In your estimation, what will be the biggest accessories trends in 2012?
For jewelry, it’s all about fine jewelry right now. Even the runways haven’t had big costume jewelry for a few seasons. And it’s all gold, diamonds, colored stones. 2012 so far has not been full of the sculptural silvers of last year—it’s all about statement fine pieces like Degriosgono or sexy gold from Bulgari. For bags, its all about the lady bag. Inspired this season by the shape of the classic Kelly bag, designers have turned to structured top handle ladybags in a variety of pastel tones and white. For shoes, the pointy toe pump is very strong in many pastels again. For clothes, there is a big return to ladylike for the most part (pastels, ’50s), but there are many other trends for those not a fan of the Mad Men look. Whatever the trends, I’m a big fan of black, rock ‘n roll and sexy styles.

Paris Mens Fashion Week: Leather, Updated Suits and Military Influence

January 26th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

YSLThe designers at Paris Menswear a/w ’12 fashion week put their unique stamp on the dominating trends already seen in Milan. From leather accents to outlandish reinterpretations of classic styles, the Paris collections were unabashed and at their best.

Statement leather and leather details were seen everywhere. YSL featured the material in lapels, turtlenecks and even shoulders, which were patched in soft black leather. Dark skin treated sleeves melted into Alexander McQueen’s zip-up wool bomber jacket, while Acne featured malleable leather shirts and Phillip Lim chose dense and heavy leather for his hip-length vest and jumper. Unexpected texture made its way in via quilting techniques in Christian Dior’s olive brown parka and Balmain’s skinny leather trousers with quilted knee patches, which were paired with strong blue pea-coats.

Thom BrowneDesigners also delivered exceptional interpretations of the gentleman’s suit, which went beyond classic ideals. Sarah Burton’s double-breasted three-piece suit in crisp white pinstripes was a success, as was the shorts suit presented at Raf Simons. Jean Paul Gaultier took a deconstruction approach, layering jacket vests over cummerbunds, collars and lapels. Influenced by Marine suits, Thierry Mugler’s Nicola Formachetti focused on tailoring and construction by minimizing (or removing) details such as pockets and lapels. Military nuances were also seen at Hermes, where sophisticated charcoal suits resembled uniforms and were accompanied by belted coats in leather and exotic skins.

As always, Paris also upheld its reputation for breaking and making trends. Thom Browne’s sinister collection of punks versus jocks introduced exaggerated quarterback shoulders, devilish spiked masks and schnauzer prints. Lanvin’s eye-catching jailhouse looks featured high-waist trousers, puffed jumpers and wide navy Lanvinstripes cut across orange coats, blazers and pleated pants. Yohji Yamamoto’s real life models donned pauper ensembles (layers of oversized red silk, wide wool suits and padded overcoats with blanket scarves). Rei Kawakuba presented an androgynous libertarian collection for Comme des Garçons that was filled with tailored coats in polka-dot and floral prints. Henrik Vibsgov’s affluent hippy collection included mature deep v-neck cardigans in printed knits and slouching trousers with tapered ankles and zip decals. And Junya Wantanabe’s a/w ’12 collection, entitled “Work,” was by far the most relaxed with country inspired flannel shirts and colorful suspenders holding up heavy dark denim.

Milan Mens Fashion Week: Dapper Vintage, Animal Inspiration and Unexpected Colors

January 26th, 2012 by Lisa Jordan

PradaThe Milan Menswear Fashion Week a/w ’12 collections delivered refreshing new trends and a variety of masculine themes. Incarnations of nostalgic fashion as well as heterogeneous interpretations of the modern gentleman dominated the overall look and feel of the presentation.

Prada’s dapper designs managed to overshadow the presentations—thanks in added part to the slew of celebrities featured both off and on the catwalk. Actors Jamie Bell, Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman modeled ‘30s-style long coats with wide fur lapels and double-breasted cummerbunds with brooch accents. The combination of these iconic male figures and designs lent a timeless glamour and masculinity to the overall collection.

At Burberry Prosum, Christopher Baily’s collection had all the excitement of a British period drama—right down to the accessories. Tweed caps and striped umbrellas with silver dogs head handles accented the quintessentially anglo collection, which featured updates on the corduroy suit as well as polka-dot shirts and ties, cropped quilted jackets and cow-neck knit jumpers. Jil Sander was also inspired by animals, albeit of the more outlandish variety. Amid the professional suits and black leather, Sander’s collection included dinosaurs and whales on a few knits.

Burberry ProsumNothing short of opulent, Giorgio Armani’s collection was lavished with velvet jackets, lush snoods and theatrical hats reminiscent of the Italian Renaissance. Similar in its approach to luxury, Dolce & Gabbana’s catwalk collection featured a series of wool suits adorned with thick capes and silk bowties, then slowly progressed into ensembles fit for royalty (silk pajamas made in the signature D&G print, dinner jackets embroidered with gold details).

Designers upstaged this season’s fine fabrics with new textiles and prints. Etro featured layered feathered jumpers with Native American printed blazers, while Missoni showed similar designs that merged the classic Missoni pattern with ethnic weaves. Missoni also included brown and red plaid trousers for a/w ’12, which was a trend also seen in DSquared2’s blue plaid scarves and button-down shirts. Denim also proved to be a popular textile, as seen at DSquared2 and, most strikingly, in a denim jacket at Valentino.

Jonathan SaundersMaking his menswear debut, Jonathan Saunders set out to distinguish himself from the fierce competition by using a fall/winter palette eclipsed by pastels and intricate pale prints on stunning two-piece suits. His collection was a mix of tailored pieces in baby blue, soft red and yellow knitwear as well as the occasional plum red or navy separate. At Moschino, Bill Shapiro showed equal enthusiasm for color with his orange brick print three-piece look, while Marc Jacobs opted for bright lime and yellow in a skater-inspired jacket with matching trousers and Trussardi designed retro houndstooth suits and suede blazers in rich blues and orange.

BFC Announces London Collections: Men

January 24th, 2012 by Chelsea Bauch

Menswear has finally emerged from the shadow of its feminine counterpart in recent years. From trendsetting menswear talents around the globe to jewelry that’s designed with a male-oriented bent, the fashion world has wizened to men’s increasingly refined fashion sensibilities. The latest milestone in this industry maturation is the announcement of London Collections: Men, a new menswear showcase that will be put on by the British Fashion Council in June.

Expanding upon the current popularity and stature of London Fashion Week’s one-day menswear showcase, the BFC is launching this new platform as a balance to its better established womenswear half. As described in a release from the BFC, London Collections: Men will “emphasize both the creative and commercial importance of Britain’s brands and emerging talent as well as the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the inspiration and success of this sector.”

Helmed by GQ editor Dylan Jones, the event’s prestigious committee—including Christopher Bailey, David Walker-Smith and Tom Ford—will feature a range of designers who represent the diversity of British menswear talent. And with dates set to coincide with London Olympic fever, Jones makes a strong case for why this is the right time and place: “Whether you’re involved in sport, fashion, media, retail, entertainment or tech, or indeed any industry, London is the place to be in 2012.”

Daily News: A Global Roundup

January 20th, 2012 by JC Report
“Asian designers, whether home based or in the fashion diaspora, are making an impact in the opening days of the Paris men’s 2012 season.” (New York Times)
“The British Fashion Council (BFC) yesterday announced the formation of a Fashion 2012 Menswear committee, designed to raise the profile of UK designers and increase sales.” (The Independent)
“Brian Atwood is amping up his eponymous line with the addition of handbags for spring ‘12.” (WWD)
“After losing Giles Deacon in December and new CEO Jeffry Aronsson just last month, Emanuel Ungaro appears to be on one shaky last leg.” (New York Magazine)

Daily News: A Global Roundup

January 19th, 2012 by JC Report

“This afternoon in Paris, British menswear designer of the year Kim Jones presented his second collection for Louis Vuitton. He talks exclusively to the Guardian about his inspirations and moodboard.” (The Guardian)

“GQ is not the only media operation to embrace a more overt commercial role. More and more publications have been trying to establish ecommerce operations in an effort to extend their brands beyond the printed page, and find new sources of revenue in a tough advertising market.” (FT)

“The US was shut out of today’s launch of the Versace for H&M cruise collection–it was only available online and H&M doesn’t have e-commerce here yet–but that doesn’t mean we’re not interested in how it all played out (or that we can’t shop it on eBay). And as has become the norm with these fast-fashion collaborations, there was drama.” (Fashionista)

“Swatch Group’s decision to lower watch part supplies to rival watchmakers this year has already impacted the industry, forcing some brands to hold back production and others to scramble for alternatives.” (Reuters)