For Yohan Serfaty, fashion is much more than self-expression. Seeking to liberate himself from the traditional restrictions of representation, this Casablanca-born, Paris-based designer toys with the relationship between the body and self-adornment. Having already established himself with a namesake womenswear collection, Serfaty now takes on an experimental interpretation of timeless, gender-neutral menswear with Y. Project.
Rendered in thick knits and enduring leathers (both animal and imitation), the s/s ’12 Y. Project collection—themed: “Personne: Somebody, Nobody, Anybody”—exudes a penetrating masculinity. High collars, asymmetrical zippers, rigid lines, engulfing hoods and minimal embellishments create the look of a timeless urban warrior. Although the collection is intended for both men and women, the rugged veneer dominates its refined execution.
Claiming to “dissect the values given to clothes in this society of perpetual movement,” Serfaty approaches apparel with the same panoramic creativity that a mathematician might apply to an unsolved theorem. Every detail is complemented by its discards, every cut balanced by hypotheticals. Serfaty’s armorial aesthetic is a combination of philosophy and presentation, a living, breathing experiment in avant-garde conceptualism and timeless design.